R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Spoolup]

Jack Bros are pretty good...they are into V8's in a big way, I could recommend better,

[Alf]

Jack Bros are pretty good...they are into V8's in a big way, I could recommend better,

I come from a V8 background, Who would you recommend?

[Spoolup]

Crankshaft engineering, ask for Dave. They know there shit and are very helpful.

[Alf]

Crankshaft engineering, ask for Dave. They know there shit and are very helpful.

Thanks for that, will make some more enquires :uh-huh:

[JNR24]

Ok quick question,

Does the R33 manual transmission input shaft go straight into the RB30 Crank?

[25t]

yes

[JNR24]

Thanks dude.

[Cubes]

It does if you put an Rb20/25/30 spiggot bearing in.

Darrens (Bl4ck32) RB30 had a flywheel attached as it was from a manual car.

But to his suprise it still had the automatic spiggot in there.

The Auto spiggot hangs 1/4 out of the crank. The Manual spiggot sits all the way in and you can only just get a finger in there.

The Auto you can almost fit a thumb in it.

I posted pics a while back.

Unsure if it was in another thread or in the RB30 thread.

I've been getting a little bit of reversion occuring with the stock rb20t turbo and std. N/A cam specs.

I've advanced the timing quite a bit 25degree's to help smooth it out.

Now I can only ever so slightly feel the bog down only under certian conditions.

Its going on the dyno Friday for a tune so it will be interesting to see if it gets rid of that afm cut I'm getting at around 10psi.

AFR's are fairly rich dipping in to the 10's and it only gets richer as boost increases.

[Sydneykid]

I have a question.

I'm worried about running the engine in with all the aftermarket parts i'll be using with a power fc on a standard rb25 tune.

Would it be better to run the engine in with the standard cams and injectors and install the pon cams and 740cc injectors later. (valve springs will be already installed.

Hi Alf, I would stick it all in, that's what I do. It is so much easier to do on the engine stand than once it is installed in the car. I simply take 700 cc vs 370 cc out of fhe master fuel correction on the PFC Commander (about 45%). Remember to do that every time you turn off the engine as the Power FC does not retain master corrections.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[25t]

joel

i must have got lucky ,i didnt change the spigot bearing ,did measure though,just bolted the gearbox up.

car is sold now ,new owner ran at drags 2 weeks ago did a 12.8 in street trim

[Cubes]

Not a bad time..

What were the mods?

ECU? FMIC? Exhaust? Bit of boost?

On std. street tyres?

[GTR-Ben]

Hi Alf,  I would stick it all in, that's what I do.  It is so much easier to do on the engine stand than once it is installed in the car.  I simply take 700 cc vs 370 cc out of fhe master fuel correction on the PFC Commander (about 45%).  Remember to do that every time you turn off the engine as the Power FC does not retain master corrections.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Can you not do this in a more permanent way?.. seems odd to do it every time you turn the car off??

[Guilt-Toy]

Can you not do this in a more permanent way?.. seems odd to do it every time you turn the car off??

I dont believe there is anyway in the PFC Hand Controller to do this. We looked for ages for this option and the only way i could take a certain % of fuel out of the system (50 psi base pressure in fuel) was to go into the INJ map and take out 15 press's on EVERY load point which took me about 2 hours

[GTR-Ben]

Ouch.. i'm going to have fun doing that.

Do if you were to go and setup the INJ map with a certain % more for size of your injectors (444-600cc) it should be a more permanent fix..?

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Ben, what belt are you running with the 26 head and how did you do your tensioner??????

[Sydneykid]

I dont believe there is anyway in the PFC Hand Controller to do this.  We looked for ages for this option and the only way i could take a certain % of fuel out of the system (50 psi base pressure in fuel) was to go into the INJ map and take out 15 press's on EVERY load point which took me about 2 hours  

It only takes a few seconds to change the master correction, until I get to do a proper tune, it is the best way I have found. Going though the maps and changing 400 load points by the same amount is a waste of time as you have to tune it properly soon anyway. Guessing a single % for the whole rpm and load range is not a good idea. If you are going to carry out minor upgrades often, then you should look at a Datalogit, it's very simple then.

[GTR-Ben]

Ben, what belt are you running with the 26 head and how did you do your tensioner??????

The belt most are using with the RB30. Dayco belt.

You don't need to do the tensioner like this also. I think 2 tensioners in the stock position would be fine.

[GTR-Ben]

It only takes a few seconds to change the master correction, until I get to do a proper tune, it is the best way I have found.  Going though the maps and changing 400 load points by the same amount is a waste of time as you have to tune it properly soon anyway.  Guessing a single % for the whole rpm and load range is not a good idea.   If you are going to carry out minor upgrades often, then you should look at a Datalogit, it's very simple then.

Thanks for the advice. I should be able to get the car running with the master correction on the hand controller and then get it down to a dyno with a datalogit for the actual tune

[Sydneykid]

You don't need to do the tensioner like this also. I think 2 tensioners in the stock position would be fine.

I like the second (high) tensioner mount, same as this. Personally I think the tensioners get too close together when they are both mounted low and the teeth face each other. Any slacknes in the belt or a bit of whip and the opposing teeth will rip each other to pieces as they are travelling in opposite directions at big RPM.

[GTR-Ben]

I like the second (high) tensioner mount, same as this.  Personally I think the tensioners get too close together when they are both mounted low and the teeth face each other. Any slacknes in the belt or a bit of whip and the opposing teeth will rip each other to pieces as they are travelling in opposite directions at big RPM.  

I see your point..

I was thinking of the OS RB30, they have the low mounted tensioners, but then again, they have a different sized belt also.