Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has anyone used the arias forged pistons to suit the rb30/25 and know what compresion ratio they give? i rang rocket but they couldnt tell me

I recently bought a set of these pistons.

Pics n details are here from a previous post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&postcount=2227

The Arias specs sheet and the factory VL manual specs seems to be different.

Using a stock rb30 na head gasket and stock 25 head it's spose to make 8.6:1 but there are many variables that can change it slightly, eg skimmed head.

But to be sure to get the right comp its best to have your engine measured for a more accurate comp.

-----------------------------------------------

What psi does a standard 9:1 rb25det produce when doing a compression test. Would this be the same for a 9:1 rb30det?.

The 26 ARP head stud kit (25 head) arrived today. :headspin:

To double check everything I tried fitting a stud to the block and head. Like others have mentioned in the past, the block needs to be drilled and tapped for the thickers studs. The 25 head holes also need to be made bigger.

I'm not sure on the torque settings for the head studs.

On the back of the ARP box is a listing of torque settings - see attatched pics

PS: It also has this written on the box > "The torque values represented here are intended to be for general information. Not for specific installations!"

is that the actual pistion set they list for the rb30/25 combo or are they just rb30 pistons?

I recently bought a set of these pistons.

Pics n details are here from a previous post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&postcount=2227

The Arias specs sheet and the factory VL manual specs seems to be different.

Using a stock rb30 na head gasket and stock 25 head it's spose to make 8.6:1 but there are many variables that can change it slightly, eg skimmed head.  

But to be sure to get the right comp its best to have your engine measured for a more accurate comp.

-----------------------------------------------

What psi does a standard 9:1 rb25det produce when doing a compression test. Would this be the same for a 9:1 rb30det?.

A bit of a wild card here guys , whilst sniffing around at an American site called Nissan Performance Magazine I saw mention of the Nissan VG33 . Its got me thinking that if an RB30 block was bored out and sleeved maybe the bigger bore pistons ie 89mm or whatever could be fitted . The trusty Casio says 3173cc's . I would discover this just after buying pistons ..........................

Actually these things are out here in current Navaras and the bore size is 91.5mm for the std 83mm stroke . Me thinks the humble RB30 Block would not like to be sleeved that far , even for 3353 cc's ........................ But if it could with larger valves in that 26 head ...........................

The yanks are fitting ser 1 VQ45 pistons in the VG33 for approx 3400cc .....

is that the actual pistion set they list for the rb30/25 combo or are they just rb30 pistons?

Yep it's a kit includes rings,clips and pins. The pistons are 8601 forged.

The kit suits both 26 and 25 head, the pistons are different from na and turbo Rb30 pistons as seen in the pic.

if you search back through this thread and find my name you will see it discussed numerous times. You need an adapter plate, you need an external pickup and you need to slightly mod the driveshaft side of the sump and change from studs to bolts.... PM if you are serious and ill give the rest of the details....

Fitted up the AP PFC to the R32 RB30DET today.

The base map runs fine providing you don't give it too much.

Knock levels for general driving with a tinny bit of stick is around 8.

Cold starts are good, warm starts require one to play with the accelerator to get it started. :cheers:

Apart from that it definitely runs better and feels much more linear.

my rb30 has rb20 power steer, air con and alternator mounted onto it

the rb30 harmonic balancer didnt line up with all the pullys correctly

we put an rb20 harmonic balancer on it and everything seems to line up fine... :S

what belts should i use? rb30 or rb20... is there any different.. maybe in height due to rb30 block??

what belts should i use? rb30 or rb20... is there any different.. maybe in height due to rb30 block??

I also used the RB20 harmonic balancer.

Use all the RB20DET spec belts.

Did you modify the rb20 powersteer bracket? As you have to.

Unless you use a R31 RB30E bracket.

  • 2 weeks later...

Probably the least techincal question asked in this thread, but here goes:

I went to fit my RB30DET on the weekend and realised I dont have the engine mount to block bolts.

Does anyone know what width, length and thread pitch these are suppose to be so I can buy some replacements?

More bolts I noticed I was short on were the oil sump to block bolts, does any one know the sizes of these as well?

some very useful information in here guys well done! was just wondering. im going a quicky budget route in my coupe. i have a 26head, larger injectors aftermarket comp , bigger fuel pump etc etc. now i am going for a block. i am really curious if i could get a standard vlt block and slap the head on it with all the other gear. how long do you guys reckon it would last with the right tuning? remembering that i would not run more than 15psi on a gt35 turbo. just to be safe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...