Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres some shots of what I have been doing lately. Just painted some stuff on the weekend to go along with the 100s of other parts I have painted, started making my light weight doors, and also the massive rewire of the car. I am moving all the wiring inside the car and cutting from the loom what i dont need like radio stuff ect, hope I remember where it all goes cause the wire schematic is too big too understand haha.

The last two runners are slightly offset in the r32's to clear the brake master cylinder i believe. The top of the plenum is different from each model as well (AAC valves are different from r32 rb25de and r32 rb20det) Pretty sure the r33 na would be different also.

Depends on what car you are doin the conversion in....In a r32 use the lower half of the rb25de runners, and rb20det plenum. Not sure on r33 inlet manifold port sizes, but the rb25de has bigger ports than the rb20det hence why u use the rb25de runners. I posted some pics a while ago in here showing the difference in sizing....

the engine is going into a VL (/me hides from flamethrowers) and as such should have no real clearance issues i believe. the main thing that worries me is the possibility of 5 & 6 running lean from too much air, but just by looking at my plenum's runners they don't appear to be much different from the other four. i might just leave it and see.

FYI - The R33 runners miss the VL brake booster by 10mm - just enough.

I havn't had any issues and don't expect to. I'm sure nissan has spent millions of R & D money designing these things so that it is not possible to run 1 or 2 cylinders so lean that an engine could die, regardless of whether it's a turbo or N/A plenum.

The R33 25de/det plenum won't go on RB20 manifold though.

The R33 don't have the shorter runners on 5 & 6.

If your 25de plenum fits onto the 20 runners, i think that confirms that the r32 rb25de does have the shorter runners like the 20det.

The R33 are not shorter on 5 & 6.

I've only ever quick looked at them, but im going to say, they are shorter, they don't make the length up in anyway that i could tell,

i.e by running them out to the side or sticking further down and back up to the head inlet.

Im going to say this is the dodgiest piece of Nissan engineering to date, like they made the motor then realised whoops, dont fit in the car, bah, lets just shortern them....

Who has a plenum to prove either way?

Cubes?

Ok, they do appear to loop a little.

Need to pull the sand out i guess and see how much volume is in those runners compared to the others.

It must be close though.

Cheers for the pics, always nice to clear stuff up.

100 pages can't be to far away now :)

okay i just checked my R33 non turbo plenum and it does not look anything like that, the top-bottom join on the runners are all on the same level, and they all look pretty damn similar in length.

so i'd say i'm okay with the plenum as it is......

p.s. jesus there's a lot of goddam coolant lines on these buggers!

SO just the clarify, if using the R32 RB25-DE Head, you can use the R32 RB25-DE lower half of the intake manifold with the RB20 Upper half with no worries? Just making sure before i pick up a RB25-DE manifold this weekend.

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...