Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a few prices on some things, what do you guys think?

Rb30 water pump (silverline) - $80

timing belt (dayco) - $22.95

Rb20 thermostat and housing - $28.95

Rb30 sump gasket $12.50

Just wondering is the brand 'silverline' a good brand of water pump or should i try and source a genuine nissan water pump?

all good :(

Make a choice on what thermostat u want, -genuine std .or aftermarket. They differ slightly in the way each holds water temps.

what would u recommend?

What about the water pump? genuine nissan or won't it really matter?

i have used both aftermarket and genuine thermostats and would recommend the genuine nissan.

i have also used various water pumps, i currently have powermax on my car which is fine.

Edited by Miz_VL_Turbo
i have used both aftermarket and genuine thermostats and would recommend the genuine nissan.

i have also used various water pumps, i currently have powermax on my car which is fine.

why the genuine nissan over the other brands?

my car ran considerably hotter with an aftermarket than with a genuine nissan. The aftermarket also got stuck open after a while, i changed it back to genuine nissan and havent had a problem with overheating since. I also use the standard clutch fan although people are starting to change to the twin AU thermo's which work well.

Edited by Miz_VL_Turbo

well i just rang another nissan dealership here in adelaide and they only want $260 for the vrs kit so search me? I also asked them about the thermostat and housing and they've said about $110 for both compared to the $30 i got quoted for the non genuine nissan items, do u guys/gals really think its worth spending the extra $80?

I like the genuine thermostats. $~50.

They get the car up to operating temp real quick, which equals better fuel economy and less engine wear.

From my observations the aftermarket thermostats react very quickly, in other words it flings right open, and very wide, and shuts really quick.

The genuine tends open not as wide and it does so a little slower, it also closes slowly. If that makes sense.

My sister had overheating issues in her VL Commodore when cruising up Willunga Hill (big arsed many km hill), drop the genuine thermostat in it and its fine.

I suspect the aftermarkets open too much that causes issues with either water flowing too quick or some some how reducing the pumps ability to flow?!?! No idea.. ;)

Grab a decent quality RB30E waterpump that come with a gasket, no need for rb26 n1 items unless it will see lots of the track.

As far as I'm aware there is only a genuine thermostat housing available. Obviously, they are a little pricey. :)

Use the one of your rb20, it should be fine.

Don't forget to change the block heater hose attachments on the rb30 to suit the rb20 setup.

One off the thermostat housing and another at the rear of the block on the drivers side.

Edited by Cubes

so get a genuine 'Nissan' one form a nissan dealership? water pump that is!

I think they're about twice as much as getting one from motormate/sprints?

Edited by mr_rbman

ok, i found an rb30e waterpump, Brand name 'silverline' sounded pretty good for $80 and came with a warranty. I'll keep my thermostat housing from the rb20 as it looks in pretty good nick and i'll just grab a genuine nissan thermostat, better to be safe than sorry!

What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman?

Stocker for a while or..?

With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. :P

The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop.

The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two.

RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. :)

Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. ;)

I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm.

Edited by Cubes

Is that the way you'll go Cubes and yes mileage is important to me as well , hence pedalling on loan G11 Charade - true king of three cylinder carby n points terrors !

I can well understand why JE had heaps of fun in the turbo Mira .

Beware of the flying flea cheers A .

What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman?

Stocker for a while or..?

With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. :)

The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop.

The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two.

RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. :D

Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. :O

I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm.

I'm able to get the bb VG30 pretty cheap so thats what i'm looking at pretty much before it gets bolted into the car. I remember you saying with your pissy little turbo that u were getting crappy mileage so i figure if i spend a little on a bigger turbo i'll save while running the car in and waiting for my 35/40 :D

Another noob question, Do you use the rb20/rb25 runners and plenum? I just can't remember what you said a while back!

Fuel economy isn't too bad, roughly 430kays to 50litres or so.

I am finding it annoying how she snaps on so hard with such little acceleration, you constantly have to be on the ball when trying to accelerate just that little bit harder than limping pace.

The VG30 with its larger turbine housing will be better suited and smoother to drive.

------

Use the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold and RB20DET plenum.

You can use the R32 RB25DE plenum, it lacks the BOV's boost feed, T into the carbon canistors feed.

You will also notice the turbo inlet manifold has a water galley run around the injectors that then feeds in to the turbo water lines around the back of the head. On the n/a inlet manifold this is blocked off. Not too much of a drama, I left mine blocked off. :)

I drove my oldies 100series v8 landcruiser around for a few days this week.

Jumping back in to my car I realised i have a big diff whine. :D

What clutch are you settling on?

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...