Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case. "

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case.  "

Yes this mod works fine for BNR32 + HR32 PowerFC. Only ECR33 PowerFC it goes bang

haha yeah good idea

shoulda seen the look on my face when i had pacman characters running around on the hand controller screen and pshyco ticking noises coming from the powerfc

im sure that would have been followed by some VERY colourful words :lol:

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

If it's a high flowed RB20DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 260 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 270 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET Neo turbo it will run out of airflow at around 280 rwkw

That's not your main problem, the RB30ET pistons with an RB25 head will have very, very low compression ratio (in the 7's). That's why we use the RB30E.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

with the rb30e, are the stock rods and slugs strong enough to take the beating? or a $2500 aftermarket jobs the go? think cheap, thats wat im trying to do.... i know i know, cheap usualling ends up being "cheap", but i dnt av THAT ammount of money lying around atm...

I just want to build a torquey motor, turbo upgrade can wait. so 270kw? a the wheels im guessing? why did this guy tell me 320? is he just having a wank? or is he just trying to get work from me?

This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better.

Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... :rofl:

Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time?

A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

So definitely rb30 related?

Sorry mate, I missed the question. Wasn't meaning to be rude.

Basically all steel things have a fatigue load limit. Below that load you can load infinitely (faults notwithstanding) and it won't fail, but increase the load, or in this case torque, and eventually it will start to crack slightly more and more each load cycle until the cross sectional area holding it is too small and just lets go, like the coathanger.

The rb30 vl type blocks dont have oil squirters. only the rb20,25,26 have them. a lot of ppl put the rb25det squirters in the rb30 conversions tho...

It's a bustard of a job (= costly), and only about 2 in 10 RB30 blocks are suitable. Ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts, just as effective.

:rofl: cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...