Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case. "

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case.  "

Yes this mod works fine for BNR32 + HR32 PowerFC. Only ECR33 PowerFC it goes bang

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
haha yeah good idea

shoulda seen the look on my face when i had pacman characters running around on the hand controller screen and pshyco ticking noises coming from the powerfc

im sure that would have been followed by some VERY colourful words :lol:

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

If it's a high flowed RB20DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 260 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 270 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET Neo turbo it will run out of airflow at around 280 rwkw

That's not your main problem, the RB30ET pistons with an RB25 head will have very, very low compression ratio (in the 7's). That's why we use the RB30E.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted

with the rb30e, are the stock rods and slugs strong enough to take the beating? or a $2500 aftermarket jobs the go? think cheap, thats wat im trying to do.... i know i know, cheap usualling ends up being "cheap", but i dnt av THAT ammount of money lying around atm...

I just want to build a torquey motor, turbo upgrade can wait. so 270kw? a the wheels im guessing? why did this guy tell me 320? is he just having a wank? or is he just trying to get work from me?

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better.

Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... :rofl:

Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time?

A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

So definitely rb30 related?

Sorry mate, I missed the question. Wasn't meaning to be rude.

Basically all steel things have a fatigue load limit. Below that load you can load infinitely (faults notwithstanding) and it won't fail, but increase the load, or in this case torque, and eventually it will start to crack slightly more and more each load cycle until the cross sectional area holding it is too small and just lets go, like the coathanger.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
The rb30 vl type blocks dont have oil squirters. only the rb20,25,26 have them. a lot of ppl put the rb25det squirters in the rb30 conversions tho...

It's a bustard of a job (= costly), and only about 2 in 10 RB30 blocks are suitable. Ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts, just as effective.

:rofl: cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Kinkstaah
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...