SPOOLN Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 The mods need to get off their arses and delete all the shit thats not needed in this thread. All we need are the facts to build an RB25/30DET. Im sure most of us dont have 3 weeks to sit down and read through 186 pages. Cheers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203135 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sydneykid Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 (edited) Ok thanks, had already tried adjusting aac valve and it didnt make any noticeable difference, think ill just get her towed down to shawn at boostworx It's running lean after the enrichment for cold start and running finishes ie; when the water temp sensor says the engine is warm. On the Commander you will find the master settings for fuel and ignition. This adds fuel at all load points and is very useful for your sort of problem Once it is warmed up, simply add fuel until it runs OK, then drive it gently to the workshop for tuning Remember to remember the correction % as it has to be reloaded every time you turn the ignition off. It is also useful to tell the tuner as it gives him a place to start tuning from. cheers Edited May 25, 2006 by Sydneykid Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203141 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FORZA-MOTORSPORT Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 It's running lean after the enrichment for cold start and running finishes ie; when the water temp sensor says the engine is warm.On the Commander you will find the master settings for fuel and ignition. This adds fuel at all load points and is very useful for your sort of problem Once it is warmed up, simply add fuel until it runs OK, then drive it gently to the workshop for tuning Remember to remember the correction % as it has to be reloaded every time you turn the ignition off. It is also useful to tell the tuner as it gives him a place to start tuning from. cheers Ok thanks Sydneykid ill give that a go Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203194 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolls Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 should i do this or leave it to an expert? Unless you've got some experience tuning Id leave it, shaun knows his stuff and will do a good job. Do some reading and when you get it back look at the tune he did, learn that way. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203227 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Foolboost, IF the AAC valve doesn't make any difference when adjusting it means you need to clean it. They tend to become gummed up and as a result blocked. To adjust the AAC valve remove the plug that is attached to it and set idle as close as possible to the pfc's target idle rpm. Be sure it doesn't nudge over the value, ever ever so slightly under is where I have mine set. Using the AAC valve I am able to set the idle so the car stalls and the opposite idle at around 1200rpm. Once thats done reconnect the plug, turn the car off, re-init the pfc, start the car and let it idle for a few minutes until the idle 'learns', during that time also let it learn the a/c idle by turning on the a/c. Setting up the idle this way the idle is 100% perfect, it never hunts. Remember to tell Shaun you will need the datalogit on it as the standard rb20 airflow reference map is not suitable. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203305 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FORZA-MOTORSPORT Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 (edited) Foolboost,IF the AAC valve doesn't make any difference when adjusting it means you need to clean it. They tend to become gummed up and as a result blocked. To adjust the AAC valve remove the plug that is attached to it and set idle as close as possible to the pfc's target idle rpm. Be sure it doesn't nudge over the value, ever ever so slightly under is where I have mine set. Using the AAC valve I am able to set the idle so the car stalls and the opposite idle at around 1200rpm. Once thats done reconnect the plug, turn the car off, re-init the pfc, start the car and let it idle for a few minutes until the idle 'learns', during that time also let it learn the a/c idle by turning on the a/c. Setting up the idle this way the idle is 100% perfect, it never hunts. Remember to tell Shaun you will need the datalogit on it as the standard rb20 airflow reference map is not suitable. Ok thanks Cubes, Hopefully i can have this sorted and have her out on the weekend , when i took her for a drive down the road i couldnt help but notice the torque even at 1500rpm its incredible! P.S if you have some free time wanna pop up and lend me a hand Edited May 26, 2006 by FOOLBOOST Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2203339 Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTT Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 FOOLBOOST - did I read correctly? you managed to put a R32 rb25 de head on a rb30 bottom end, and fit it in an R32 GTS4 without modifying the engine mounts.. AND using stock plenum and pipes? This puts a whole new spin on things if true.. Please pm me some details of how you got the bonnet to shut. and anything else that you've done that might come in handy to someone else is your situation.... me!!! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2205395 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FORZA-MOTORSPORT Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 (edited) FOOLBOOST - did I read correctly?you managed to put a R32 rb25 de head on a rb30 bottom end, and fit it in an R32 GTS4 without modifying the engine mounts.. AND using stock plenum and pipes? This puts a whole new spin on things if true.. Please pm me some details of how you got the bonnet to shut. and anything else that you've done that might come in handy to someone else is your situation.... me!!! LOL not quite havent adjusted the bonnet yet, thats all i have left to do it clicks in one notch, so i think ill either put spacers and rase the rear of the bonnet up or cut the bonnet supports off to clear the plenum, i have scrapped the bonnet scoop idea as i want to keep the car as stock looking as possible! Where abouts are you located, your welcome to come and have a look or when i get some decent pics up ill send them your way. Edited May 27, 2006 by FOOLBOOST Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2205785 Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTT Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 yeh.. brisbane to adelaide is a little bit of a drive.. I might wait for pics.. cheers Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2206149 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Sky30, That torque comparison... I had a little look, and figured its not really worth it as torque is power relative. Ash's, mine and darrens torque is all fairly similiar as a result, yours is obviously off the chart as your making another 100rwkw more than any one else. + without knowing everyones exact wheel sizes it does make it a little difficult to make 100% accurate. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2207344 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sky30 Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 joel, I was more interested in how the torque curves compare than just outright numbers, what speed max torque was made, and how well the torque was held. Also the figures should be fairly accurate as the were all 4th gear, using the stock diff ratio and the same dyno. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2208622 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebostyles Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 ok guys im in a bit of a dilema. ive sold my r32 and ive been handed the opportunity to buy a r33 with a rb25 head and rb30 bottom end. The only thing that im worried about is the car currently has the rb30 bottom end engine number. Is there a requirement for engieenering as you are changing the motor to a 3 litre (just the bottom end)? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2209776 Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinum Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 I think in that year of car, it's more of a don't ask, don't tell thing. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2209803 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebostyles Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 I think in that year of car, it's more of a don't ask, don't tell thing. yeah but knowing my luck i will get done for it Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2209868 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 its a risk u take i guess with this motor, my rego has the rb20 engine number but the block has an rb30 engine number! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2210151 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 you would need a blue slip done on the car with the rb30, basically to test that the engine block wasn't stolen and to have it changed on your registration... this is in NSW though Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2210384 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lebostyles Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 The car has the conversion with a custom inlet plenium, bigger throttle body, wolf ecu, surge tank with bosch 044 fuel pump, arc front mount intercooler, T3/T4 turbo, hks exhaust, coilovers, body kit. Something i really been lookin for, but i think it is to much of a hassel Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2210483 Share on other sites More sharing options...
platinum Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 you would need a blue slip done on the car with the rb30, basically to test that the engine block wasn't stolen and to have it changed on your registration...this is in NSW though I thought that you couldn't put an older engine into a newer car, full stop - ie they had RB30 blocks in some r31s even after vls, not sure what exactly they would class as the 'engine' though, whether thats the block itself, or the head/accessories they're looking at. Definatly a LOT of grey areas with these hybrid engines haha. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2210930 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craved Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 I thought that you couldn't put an older engine into a newer car, full stop - ie they had RB30 blocks in some r31s even after vls, not sure what exactly they would class as the 'engine' though, whether thats the block itself, or the head/accessories they're looking at.Definatly a LOT of grey areas with these hybrid engines haha. havent seen anything liek this is anything i've read ... will check it out with my mechanic, see if his engineer can give me any info.. im not gonna go ahead with it if i cant... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2210937 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 I thought that you couldn't put an older engine into a newer car, full stop - ie they had RB30 blocks in some r31s even after vls, not sure what exactly they would class as the 'engine' though, whether thats the block itself, or the head/accessories they're looking at.Definatly a LOT of grey areas with these hybrid engines haha. I've had a chat to regency regarding this, the 'older engine' is everything, from the block, head, emissions and ecu. The bloke I spoke to at least said there is no issues with the 'older engine' thing when using the head and emissions from that car as all we are essentially doing is stroking the motor. The car must pass an emissions test, he did say there wouldn't be issues if it ran on the std ecu as airflow is relative. He appeared to know what he was talking about but as with every government agency you call get some one else and get a whole different set of answers. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/170/#findComment-2211188 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now