Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Easiest way for you to understand is to take apart the old rb30 motor and look at it. You will notice that there is a considerable wear mark on the crank drive and also on the gear itself on the pump. Because the drive surface area is so small it tends to bite into the gear and places all drive pressure onto that small surface. By using the JUN OR OTHER collar you are increasing the drive surface area of the crank to the same or a similiar size as the gear in the oilpump. This spreads an even load of drive force across the pump gear as to not direct it into a small point where it will eventually crack and break through the gear and damage if not destroy your beautiful new engine.

The various pumps you can use have different size gears. The collars are made to suit typically a gtr pump 33 or onwards, N1 pumps(most typical) or any other aftermarket oil pump eg. Tomei, JUN, blah blah blah. Part of the cracking is not purely because of the crank gear drive, the pumps small gear which varies in size in different engine model oil pumps can also be held accountable.

The rb30 pumps are capable of failing as is any rb pump, i would think that typically old age is a big thing, and the fact that they just seem undersized for a performance application...especially if you compare them to an aftermarket or n1 pump.

Geez i hope all that crap made sense...

Easiest way for you to understand is to take apart the old rb30 motor and look at it. You will notice that there is a considerable wear mark on the crank drive and also on the gear itself on the pump. Because the drive surface area is so small it tends to bite into the gear and places all drive pressure onto that small surface. By using the JUN OR OTHER collar you are increasing the drive surface area of the crank to the same or a similiar size as the gear in the oilpump. This spreads an even load of drive force across the pump gear as to not direct it into a small point where it will eventually crack and break through the gear and damage if not destroy your beautiful new engine.

The various pumps you can use have different size gears. The collars are made to suit typically a gtr pump 33 or onwards, N1 pumps(most typical) or any other aftermarket oil pump eg. Tomei, JUN, blah blah blah. Part of the cracking is not purely because of the crank gear drive, the pumps small gear which varies in size in different engine model oil pumps can also be held accountable.

The rb30 pumps are capable of failing as is any rb pump, i would think that typically old age is a big thing, and the fact that they just seem undersized for a performance application...especially if you compare them to an aftermarket or n1 pump.

Geez i hope all that crap made sense...

works for me

Man im glad someone understood it then.

I think with all this information and still uncertainty with certain areas regarding the build im sure more info could be added to the guide that could clarify certain things for people, because it seems everyone doesnt wanna read through all the pages anymore. Dunno why? I did it. Took me the better part of a week after work every night.

The RB30 pumps have a small engagement gear that is roughly the same size as the small crank drive, and interesting enough they tend not to have the issues we do.

I've attached a pic of the rb30 oil pump gears, AND the rb25det oil pump gears. Take note of the smaller inner gears lug that engages with the crank. RB30 small.. RB25 BIG and wide. :D

From what I've seen the rb20 pump is a bee's dick smaller in width to the rb25det pump. It was interesting to note the rb25det pump internal gears appeared the same as a standard r32 rb26det oil pump. Its likely the only difference between the rb25det pump and the rb26dett is the pressure.

I've updated the crank section of the guide a little so its easier to understand.

The R32 RB20/25/26 and series 1 R33 RB25DET crank to oil pump engagement does not engage the full length of the oil pumps internal gear. Think of it as placing pressure on your rib cage with a single finger then doing the same with your palm. With a greater surface area wear on the surface where the two gears engage is reduced.

It’s a well known issue, It is a very wise move to have a full length crank collar installed, the item costs approximately $100 or $350 installed from http://www.proengines.com.au.

A JUN crank collar can also be purchased from Japan.

Both crank collars are universal and suit ALL oil pumps. All RB twin cam oil pumps will benefit with the use of a full length oil pump drive collar.

post-382-1158061629.jpg

post-382-1158061636.jpg

my rb30 crank has the wear pattern like right hand crank in this pic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55657

so looks like the wear is the same with rb30 oil pump as well, regardless of the smaller gear

I originally slapped together (literally) the rb30det guide without too much detail as it was my intention not to provide everything on a silver platter.

I figured if one doesn't understand how (for example please don't be offended) the oil pump engages with a crank then really they simply don't need to know as their level of knowledge won't allow them to build up a motor anyway. All they really need to know is its best to use a full length crank collar and that’s it. Hand the guide to an engine builder and no doubt there will be very little if any questions.

Some times the best way to understand is to grab an engine manual and rip the rb30 engine apart yourself. Next thing you know you will be thinking.. bah I could have some one do the machining on the block and assemble the sucker myself.

I'm hoping Christian will get this SAU wiki sorted and I will drop the rb30det guide in to that.

At that time I will also include information on whats required for the rb30 GTR/GTS4 combo.

my rb30 crank has the wear pattern like right hand crank in this pic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55657

so looks like the wear is the same with rb30 oil pump as well, regardless of the smaller gear

erm... There is no wear there. :D

Thats the engagement lug that slides in and engages with the oil pumps internal gear.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55680

As you can see by the above pic there is a flat section in the inner section of the oil pumps inside gear, that engages with the flat section on the crank that provides drive to the oil pump so that it spins around and pumps oil.

erm... There is no wear there. :D

Thats the engagement lug.

you see the small square that is darker on the right hand side of the engagement surface ??

mine is about that size and is about 20 thou deep ...

Ahh yeh thats good. Yes i know where your coming from cubes with that point. I guess i was thinking it was more a way of educating people on here about it so they could give it ago themselves or else they wont learn at all but i understand that a certain percentage of people just dont have any mechanical feel at all and couldnt do it even if they half grasped the concept.

I think i just want to overpopulate every nissan with a rb30 hybrid, get more combinations out there, which will mean more information about setups and the like. So rather then just everyone using a gt35/40 they will try out different setups and see the results in comparison to their old 20/25/26.

The rb30 has the same wear as well if not worse. When i pulled down our rb30 the drive and gear had a massive bite mark where it was wearing from the drive pressure, there would have had to have been about 40thou of slop between the flat and then when the gear actually engaged on the wear mark. It was nasty to look at, and originally we were gonna use the rb25det pump and the std drive, im glad we didnt especially since its a race car.

Edited by r33_racer

I forgot to add....

I'm thinking of making the guide indepth and hopefully cover any questions as seeing the same questions time and time again is becoming a little tiring. ;)

Unfortnately my build up was done when the Jun collar was the only one that existed and it was at the time this thread was only starting.. So.. I'm running around without a crank collar. :P

Unfortnately my build up was done when the Jun collar was the only one that existed and it was at the time this thread was only starting.. So.. I'm running around without a crank collar. :)
Yep I've racked up 40,000km's in mine. :3some:

good to see that its not 'required' just a good idea.

Yep just like forged pistons arent required, or conrods or new bearings or new pumps or a steel headgasket or anything else that might improve the quality of the motor. You build to suit the application...you wouldnt build a bodgy motor and expect it to hold 400rwkws reliably would you or even 300rwkws? Build to suit is all i can say.

I would say the same also. Oil is important, especially in a performance application. But the problem is not everyone can afford to get it done, they want a budget motor which might blow up in the future. I dont understand why people do that...why not just build it right the first time....makes me remember the saying "Measure twice, cut once".

But the problem is not everyone can afford to get it done, they want a budget motor which might blow up in the future. I dont understand why people do that...why not just build it right the first time....makes me remember the saying "Measure twice, cut once".

Its not like its expensive though... $300 odd and its installed. If one cant stretch the budget $300 then wait another pay or two until u can then build it up. :3some:

One thing i have learnt during this whole process, is never count on anything been done in a set timeframe, as one "part" relies on another "part" of the build being finished/machined before you can continue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...