Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my rb26/30 with a gt35r 1.06 rear jun stage one cams, 1000cc injectors, twin fuel pumps, etc made 700bhp @ the fly and 660lbs torque@ the fly that was at 1.8 bar though, so yes its possible thats on 98ron pump fuel /uk we did a run upto 2.2 bar and got almost 750bhp/700lbs torque but turbo was overspinning. went to castle donnington race curcuit on friday , open pit lane and did 80 miles on track at 2 bar all day no prbs..bernie

i want as much low - mid toqrue as possible without excessive wheelspin. im runing the .82 rear on the 3540. how much boost could i run? a friend of mine on the standard rb25 (r33) ran 26psi which i havnt seen but ppl talk to much shit these days so just wanan confirm.

ive forged the bottom and aiming for the 500hp park.. so around 370 380RWKW.....

possible with standard cams? if not how big should i go? again it is a street car so trying not to get TOOOOOO MUCH attention with the lumpy noise.

p.s max output on standard pump fuel with standard cams?

Edited by R34NRG
i want as much low - mid toqrue as possible without excessive wheelspin. im runing the .82 rear on the 3540. how much boost could i run? a friend of mine on the standard rb25 (r33) ran 26psi. ive forged the bottom and was hoping for around 380rwkw.

possible with standard cams? if not how big should i go? again it is a street car so trying not to get TOOOOOO MUCH attention with the lumpy noise.

no way in the world with std cams - poncams would suit you pretty well

no way in the world with std cams - poncams would suit you pretty well

was afraid of that...GOSH THIS PROJECT IS MAKN ME BROKE!!! lol

any idea wat i would crack out with standard cams?

looks like im gonna have to pour another 1.5k into cams and gears......any recommendations?

Edited by R34NRG

low-mid 300's with alot of boost

you are better off getting some headwork so you can make more power with less boost. as SK always says, boost is just a measure of restriction - the more boost you have to run, the greater the restriction in the system

cams and gears will be well under 1k. give dan from elite racing a call on 0407 111 229 - tell him shane sent you :P

low-mid 300's with alot of boost

you are better off getting some headwork so you can make more power with less boost. as SK always says, boost is just a measure of restriction - the more boost you have to run, the greater the restriction in the system

what sorta headwork? and how much are we talkn $$$ wise.......far out this is not going well lol......

sorry guys wen it comes to engines im very new to it all.

i guess if i hit 350 i would be happy....

cams and gears will be well under 1k. give dan from elite racing a call on 0407 111 229 - tell him shane sent you :P

hrmmm sounds good, where abouts is dan located? QLD? because im in VIC

im picking the car up on thursday after a good 4 months so cant wait....but now im not sure if i should delay it for the cams now

hrmmm sounds good, where abouts is dan located? QLD? because im in VIC

im picking the car up on thursday after a good 4 months so cant wait....but now im not sure if i should delay it for the cams now

yeh he's in qld. he can get the cams sent anywhere though

yeh he's in qld. he can get the cams sent anywhere though

yeh tru, although i always rather speak face to face.....lol

well ill keep u guys posted when i get my car back....honestly i dont know what the hell to expect......i hope the rb30 holds its reputation for delievering lol.

Have no intension on spending more money, so unless he is willing to do it for free, i have no need to speak to him :)

Spoke to two engine machinists and also an avionics engineer, that builds and repairs aircraft engines, all have stated that a pinhole in the block is almost impossible to see/find. A crack is different as it is bigger, etc., but a pin-hole would not show up on the x-rays or sonic tests.

Either way, i bought the block through my mechanic, so it is still being replaced, at no expense to me. But i will seriously consider buying the piston rings and passing the other info onto my mechanic, even though i am confident in his abilities.

Ok, I will bite..............why don't you just get the pin hole welded up in situ? Take no time at all on the hoist with a Mig.

The real question, how come it has a pin hole in the oil gallery anyway? Being oil filled, it's not gunna rust through like a water jacket.

My guess would be a crack emanating from the oil feed for the turbo or the oil return. That happens when people over tighten the fittings.

Sorry but after building over 40 RB30's, I just don't buy the random pin hole reasoning.

Cheers

Gary

Ok, I will bite..............why don't you just get the pin hole welded up in situ? Take no time at all on the hoist with a Mig.

The real question, how come it has a pin hole in the oil gallery anyway? Being oil filled, it's not gunna rust through like a water jacket.

My guess would be a crack emanating from the oil feed for the turbo or the oil return. That happens when people over tighten the fittings.

Sorry but after building over 40 RB30's, I just don't buy the random pin hole reasoning.

Cheers

Gary

The repair of the hole has been lightly discussed over the phone, but i personally would feel more comfortable with the block replaced, especially for the fact that it is only going to cost me time and maybe a set of piston rings. As you have stated; i too am not convinced that a pin-hole would appear without a crack on the other side. Which still means that the machinest hadn't done his job properly, when crack testing the block.

Don't know how it happened, but i do know that it is not located near any fittings.

PS: Haven't seen my mechanic since Wednesday morning; has the sway bar been repaired and sent back? It had not arrived yet, by the time i left at 11am.

The repair of the hole has been lightly discussed over the phone, but i personally would feel more comfortable with the block replaced, especially for the fact that it is only going to cost me time and maybe a set of piston rings. As you have stated; i too am not convinced that a pin-hole would appear without a crack on the other side. Which still means that the machinest hadn't done his job properly, when crack testing the block.

Don't know how it happened, but i do know that it is not located near any fittings.

PS: Haven't seen my mechanic since Wednesday morning; has the sway bar been repaired and sent back? It had not arrived yet, by the time i left at 11am.

Were any pics taken of the problem?

Edited by Alf

Went 560 rwhp today on 23psi, and then started to lean out again.

Current setup is an 044 intank feeding a 044 in line - all on 98 BP fuel.

I think Ill have to go twin 044's and a surge tank to overcome this problem. Wanted to keep away from fuel pumps in the boot etc but cant see any other options now.

Went 560 rwhp today on 23psi, and then started to lean out again.

Current setup is an 044 intank feeding a 044 in line - all on 98 BP fuel.

I think Ill have to go twin 044's and a surge tank to overcome this problem. Wanted to keep away from fuel pumps in the boot etc but cant see any other options now.

you could possible fit an aeromotive a1000 under the car

i was originally gonna fit mine under the car (32 gtr) but decided it would be easier to run it in the boot because of the fuel cell, and its a drag car now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...