R33 Rb30 Conversion

[TiTAN]

I would presume the stock rb30 pump should be ok with stock restrictors.

I remember some one on ct.com had issues with pressure bleeding off on idle with the rb30e pump. Unsure if it was a stuffed bottom end, pump etc.

Wouldn't use an idler. Use 2 x tensioners.

someone on here also had issues when they reused the stock RB30 oil pump, had to replace it with a twin cam one.

[TiTAN]

alright sweet..... hmmmm

should be okay to just use the stock rb30 tensioner and the tensioner off my rb20 aswell....

sweeet as chhheeeers for all the help

why not replace the old tensioners? you should be able to pickup two brand new ones for sub $100.

[bubbabooga]

yeah i was just thinking that.. i remember hearing tensionsers are f**k all any ways..

when i order thermostat head gasket water pump and now two tensioners

was their somthing i red in this thread about series one rb25 oil pump works fine without the collar.. as its the same length on the series one rb25 crank???

any confirmation?

[GTR-Ben]

Did another tune on mine.

Made 467hp with a bit of time spent on the cam gears etc. Could get more, but this is more than enough in a street car. Lots of fun

[SirRacer]

Impressive results Ben. Will be nasty in that light little car.

Rb25det oil pump is fine to use.

[bubbabooga]

does anyone know max recomened boost and max rwkw on stock bottom end?? (new rings, bearings and a hone)

like with stock rods and pistons..??

heard of guys going over 300rwkw on stock na pistons and rods.....

got qoute for $1800 for acl race series bearings, new rings, crank collar supplied and fitted and all new welch plugs and seals

is that the average kinda price range for that work to be done

cheers

tom

[bubbabooga]

and would any one happen to have rb25det oil pump for sale?

[unique1]

has anyone got the torque specs for stock rb25 head bolts? can these bolts be reused? how much is a new set if they cant?

this is a super budget build for abit of fun, i dont care if it doesnt last ages, i dont wanna spend money if i dont have to, limiting the power to 400hp anyway so shouldnt be too much stress.

[R34GTFOUR]

has anyone got the torque specs for stock rb25 head bolts? can these bolts be reused? how much is a new set if they cant?

this is a super budget build for abit of fun, i dont care if it doesnt last ages, i dont wanna spend money if i dont have to, limiting the power to 400hp anyway so shouldnt be too much stress.

you can re-use them, but i dont know the torque specs off the top of my head, someone else will probably chime in

although ARP head studs arent all that expensive

Edited August 18, 2008 by R34GTFOUR

[Craved]

rb25 headstuds torque process

[unique1]

thanks guys great help, i got hold of some second hand rb25 bolts yesterday for $20 so ill see if they last, if not i dont care ill just get some new ones.

the motors coming together nicely now, its a basic setup using a stock rb30 bottom end that i bought from a mate for $50, pity it was a s1 block

The block has been recond as it has acl main bearings and NDC rod bearings, these are stamped with what i beleive to be the date they were made and it says 1998 so its still fairly old, hopefully they last a while. I had to tap the water feed for turbo, and drill out the oil feed line as well. I then got the machine shop to deck the block and wash it and tap the oil drain for turbo as well all for $100. I bought the front and rear crank seals for $16 for both, and a dayco timing belt for $31. I decided i didnt wanna tap the head bolt holes for rb26 bolts as the plan is to chuck in stock bottom ends if this blows up and i dont want to have to retap bolt holes everytime i buy a bottom end. So the plan is to use some stock rb25 headbolts as mentioned. I bought 2 mig welder tips for $1 each and used a 1.5mm one in one feed and the other one i welded the hole up and put in the other feed, worked perfect.

I bought a low comp rb26 complete a while ago, i removed the head for this project and had the head decked and valve seats recut as the motor had been detonating and the seats were shocking condition. I chucked in some new valve stem seals and the valve guides looked brand new and were within specs.

I am putting this into a 32 gtr running rwd (using the rb30 sump) and machined off front axles, plus either a gtr box with removed tf case or a rb25 box. I have bought a t3 flanged high mount manifold for $200 from a mate, its a steampipe design and looks great, definately got a bargain, it was used on a rb26 with gt3540 xr6 turbo internal gate turbo, so i need to add an external gate pipe on it or run an internal gate turbo.

I think a gt3076r is my number one turbo option, i have the injectors, ecu, fuel system all sorted from my current setup and hoping to push around 400rwhp, the gtr is stripped out and should be at 1250kg or just under with the 4wd stuff removed and totally stripped.

[Cubes]

I am putting this into a 32 gtr running rwd (using the rb30 sump) and machined off front axles, plus either a gtr box with removed tf case or a rb25 box. I have bought a t3 flanged high mount manifold for $200 from a mate, its a steampipe design and looks great, definately got a bargain, it was used on a rb26 with gt3540 xr6 turbo internal gate turbo, so i need to add an external gate pipe on it or run an internal gate turbo.

Why? :S

[dano4127]

Finally got it tuned!!!! Feels really nice to drive

Unfortunately maxed out the Z32 for some unknown reason so couldnt go any further as i only had 2 hours of tuning available on the dyno with DrDrift

Just wondering if anyone can tell me what this works out to be in NM?

Posted up the full setup and other graphs in the dyno thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4082856

Edited August 20, 2008 by dano4127

[Cubes]

Strange you max'd it out at 255rwkw. Mines pushing ~5volts at 302rwkw.

Boost leak?

[bubba]

Nice work Brad and Dan! hopefully I have some big number to post soon

[dano4127]

Strange you max'd it out at 255rwkw. Mines pushing ~5volts at 302rwkw.

Boost leak?

Thats what im hoping! Couldn't find an odious one but i will do some detective work next weekend

A mate of mine has a bung and compressor so I will pressurize and see what we can come up with...

Nice work Brad and Dan! hopefully I have some big number to post soon

[Godzilla33]

Finally fired the new machine into life with a slightly strange situation, Im running N1 pump, 26 head with 2 x 1mm restrictors. The strange part is I have fitted a mechanical autometer oil pressure gauge off the main gallery where the original RB30 oil pressure sender screw into & it gradually goes off the chart to 100psi at idle..... Im running 15/40 shell helix mineral oil, the std oil pressure gauge on the dash reads about 3/4. Not sure if I have an issue with the oil thickness or a bodgy gauge....

Anyone else had this?

I havnt fully warmed it up yet as still fitting the wideband sensor & want to make sure all is good

Cheers, Matt

[Cubes]

Mine see's only 'just' under the 8 on the stock guage when driving and approx 7.5 on cold idle. Once warm ~6-6.5 max.

Always has for 90,000km's so far. :S

[unique1]

Why? :S

because i can nah its because i want a cheap setup for drifting and then i have the 560hp at wheels rb26 engine for proper track work and a ppg dogbox, i will swap between the 2 setups in the gtr im trying to save weight with the 30 setup as its gonna be limited to 400hp and it will pretty much be like a gtst setup drivetrain wise with this engine.

[dano4127]

because i can nah its because i want a cheap setup for drifting and then i have the 560hp at wheels rb26 engine for proper track work and a ppg dogbox, i will swap between the 2 setups in the gtr im trying to save weight with the 30 setup as its gonna be limited to 400hp and it will pretty much be like a gtst setup drivetrain wise with this engine.

thats cool but fark your a gluten for punishment!