Sciby Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Originally posted by wilzlee I've just got myself a set of tomei pistons 87mm... i thought of doing the conversion myself too but i am not sure where can i get a RB30 block from and how much would it cost. please help me. Can i do the conversion with a standard turbo? <snip of slightly paranoid ramblings> First off, your standard turbo will be fine at first. You'll need something smallish to run it in anyway. You can't just slap an engine together, dialup 20psi and start doing quarter runs. Things will break. I'm planning to use my standard turbo for the run-in period. The rest of the questions, Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467513 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Question for Joel, I read your D.I.Y. guide & would like to know if the VCT can actually be operational & if so, how you go about it? Thanx in advance, Nick. Don't know Trev, they only list the one contact. LSW Group in Sydney (02) 9773 0647. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467535 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyrine-Dave Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 nick i asked this at the top of the page... to make the VVT operational you will need a switch to activate the VVT oil feed solinoid at a set point. Joels idea was to have a switch hooked up to the tacho reading so that once the car reaches say 5000rpm the soilinoid would open allowing the VVT to function. well thats how i assume it would work Dave Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467550 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNR24 Posted August 5, 2003 Author Share Posted August 5, 2003 Originally posted by nixcars Question for Joel, I read your D.I.Y. guide & would like to know if the VCT can actually be operational & if so, how you go about it? Thanx in advance, Nick. Hey nick, Check out the site below: he goes into detail about retaining VCT: http://www.users.bigpond.com/allanreynolds...enewtwinvl.html Cheers, Trev Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467566 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 I should have been more specific Dave, my concern is the oil feed from the block to the head gallarie which supplies the oil to the VCT. Is there more than 1 oil feed. I would also like to know if it isn't used, will it create problems. Thanx Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467639 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNR24 Posted August 5, 2003 Author Share Posted August 5, 2003 Nick, wont be a problem if its not connected. you have read that site i gave you? there is only 1 oil feed line. but dont forget to restrict it to 1mm. Cheers, Trev Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467660 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 OK got it, thanx Trev. Anyone out there want to buy most of this set up I have for sale? Complete RB30 bottom end (block, crank, rods, pistons, sump etc. $200. NEW never used & stress free RB30 block in the crate from Nissan, $450. RB25DET complete head with cams, coils, covers, ex manifold, modified top half of intake manifold etc, $850. Pics available, Nick. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-467758 Share on other sites More sharing options...
OVL-747 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Originally posted by JNR24 CRANK: RB30 Stock crank, get it balanced etc. RODS: RB30 Stock rods, Polished, shot-peened, nitraded (if you want) PISTONS: Get a set of forgies and machine the block to fit. This is just what to use, not the background in getting it together, etc. not only do u get the crank balanced , get it ground undersized , as u will get oversize bearings and u also drill out the little lead plugs and put a new grub screw in there. good idea to get the rods resized aswell Originally posted by -Joel- For example the VL Turbo isn't able to make 260rwkw on standard pistons. The ol' VL Turbo's have many story's of melting pistons. are u sure i have seen it done a few times , its just a matter of getting the fuel and ir right. standard nissan pistons shit all over acl etc pistons , if u build up a hipo 3ltr save urself dramas and get forgies straight away. dont waste ur money on any cast peice of junk , cept a standard nissan item Originally posted by Sydneykid . All of the RB30 blocks (both N/A and turbo) that I have seen, have blanked off holes for turbo water feed and water return and turbo oil feed and oil return. It is simply a matter of drilling and tapping the holes for the fittings in the block. Don't let that put you off, it's a piece of cake. . series i na block does not have the oil feed and drain back holes etc. series 2 na block does , it just has brass bungs in em , unscrew em get the required fitting and banjo bolt from holden and ur away. Originally posted by GiJOr33 nice... but i thought moving the throttle body like that on the plenum would mean that cylinder 6 (closest to the windscreen) runs lean (or is it rich) as iit doesn't get as much air. Has anyone thought of doing twin throttle bodies? not really , u will notice all the fast vl turbos run subzero or nizpro plenums all with front facing t/b's , it all comes down to whats inside the plenum , tuned length runners:) etc Originally posted by -Joel- I stumbled upon this ppls.. http://www.users.bigpond.com/allanreynolds...enewtwinvl.html Interisting the way he has done the cam belt and also the vvt joel if ur ever in need to talk to that fella , his username is twinvl , on the calais turbo forums , also another chap whos name is stimps , i believe has done a 25 head on 30 bottom , and asl rb30det off there aswell is doing it. theres a few over here that have toyed with it , cant beat the sohc though lol Originally posted by Sydneykid Hi, JNR24, let me make sure I have this right, you are looking at an 800 bhp, single turbo, manual gearbox, 2 wheel drive application? If that is the case, then I would personally go for a Motec ECU. You are going to benefit from the functionality of models from the M48 Pro (with Advanced Tuning Options) upwards as follows; data logging traction control launch control full closed loop control using fast and wide lambda sensing 32 bit processing individual injector trim individual cylinder ignition trim air temperature compensation engine temperature compensation exhaust gas temperature compensation over run boost enhancement (anti lag) wastegate control gear position compensation soft and hard rpm limits intercooler spray control For that level you are looking at around $6K installed and wired with a base map for running in the engine. With normal tuning do and charge following that. Hope that is of some help motec is too much $$$ for any of us here in reality , i have just got an autronic smc , for my vl , it is capable of all of the above mentioned stuff (near enough) its completely user definable , which make tuning at any speed , rpm , boost whatever oh so easy and acurate. Originally posted by nixcars Hi Trev, Here's another idea, Total Seal make a good set of rings for the RB's. Top ring is ductile iron (much more durable), second ring is gapless & the the oil ring is 4mm wide instead of 2.5mm for graeter oil control. This means you have to machine your pistons. Nick. best rings to use are standard nissan , nissan is ****in excellent gear , no matter what engine , they have the best research and development etc. high quality , as for segmented oil ring , there are some good and some bad though it all comes down to ur installation of it , as to how it works and lasts. Originally posted by -Joel- What is cryotuff treated.. I've heard of it with Diff's etc but not engine internals. cryo can be done to pistons etc but dont bother WASTING your money Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-468898 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiJOr33 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 yeah... i understand that. But i was talking about the cut and shut of an RB25 plenum... they are designed to flow from the top, and from the factory flow pretty damn well. The subzero ones are $1200+ so you'd expect them to flow evenly. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469248 Share on other sites More sharing options...
OVL-747 Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 yeah i see where ur comin from i cant see why the stock 25 plenum shouldnt be used , id imagine itd be up to the job Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469336 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 I've heard of quite a few R33's as it is with the stock Plenum throttle body position leaning out no 5 & 6, detonating and cracking ring lands. Maybe there is a slight flaw in the design of the stock plenum? Maybe it gives the last two cyclinders slightly more air in its stock form and when moving the throttle body to the front it gets worse?!?!? Hence why when the AF's are tuned to 'on the edge' 12.2-12.5:1 and making decent power 250rwkw+, they break? Then again maybe not Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469354 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sciby Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Well, got some photos of my poor, long suffering RB30... sitting in a mate's shed, waiting patiently for me to throw money at it again. Photos are big, 200kb +. There's some surface rust as you can see, the joker i bought it off had it sitting in the back of an open shed. The story I've been given (and what I can piece together by reading and using my limited knowledge) is that it's a Series 2 R33 head on a Series 2 block, with a 1mm HKS copper headgasket, stock (nitrided, etc) balanced crank, stock rods, Wiseco pistons giving 8.3:1 compression. If anyone else can make anything else out of importance from the photos, or can confirm or deny what I've said it is, please feel free to make comment. I'm not a wealth of knowledge on engines, and frankly, I'm learning as I go here. I'm sure my mates are sick of my constant questions. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469386 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Are you guys saying that the rear cylinders are not getting enough air because of the distance it has to travel & cause a lean out? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469405 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Originally posted by nixcars Are you guys saying that the rear cylinders are not getting enough air because of the distance it has to travel & cause a lean out? The problem with the rear cylinders is they get more air and lean out. Even the fella who built the HKS drag skyline says this, and he recommends what sydneykid does. My only problem was that when I got my new injectors, they all flowed the same except for 1 and that was only just on 1% over:( Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469594 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Steve, Can this be overcome by altering the length of the velocity stacks inside the plenum whilst doing the cut & shut? (sorry, haven't read all 20 pages yet, answer might all ready have been said). Nick. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469656 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNR24 Posted August 5, 2003 Author Share Posted August 5, 2003 Originally posted by OVL-747 joel if ur ever in need to talk to that fella , his username is twinvl , on the calais turbo forums , also another chap whos name is stimps , i believe has done a 25 head on 30 bottom , and asl rb30det off there aswell is doing it. theres a few over here that have toyed with it , cant beat the sohc though lol Hi OVL-747, Thanks for your info on the crank & rods dude. Just a quick question how did you come to the conclusion that a single over head cam, 12 valve head, would be better/or cant be beaten. Compared to a double over head cam, 24 valve head? Not haven a go! I just want to know some facts! Cheers, Trev Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469970 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 nixcars, theoretically the best design for a plenum is one that feeds from the middle, not the front. I it may possible to do what you are saying, however I reckon the differences are that small, it would be almost impossible to get exact. And if it were such a simple thing to do, HKS would have had a look at it already and not be just using their injectors to allow for the difference between cylinders. After all the difference between optimum AF ratios and detonation can be a very fine line esp when a car is near it absolute limits. Its probably better to stick with what you know will work than take the chance, unless of course you have a few engines you can afford to blow up, and many thousands of dollars to get your plenum exact. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-469971 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nixcars Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Point taken Steve, I supose it depends on the variables & adjustability of your engine management system. I guess the only advantage for a bigger front mount throttle body plenum would be pipe work for the intercooler. Has anyone tried twin T/B's in the middle of a standard plenum? Nick. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-470000 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GiJOr33 Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 what twin throttle bodies would you use? 2 smaller than stock, or just two stock ones? you could king of have it setup like the NEO 6, a throttle body feeding 3 cylinders each Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-470101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
OVL-747 Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Originally posted by JNR24 Hi OVL-747, Thanks for your info on the crank & rods dude. Just a quick question how did you come to the conclusion that a single over head cam, 12 valve head, would be better/or cant be beaten. Compared to a double over head cam, 24 valve head? Not haven a go! I just want to know some facts! Cheers, Trev i was just stiring the pot mate , no harm intended. gijor33 again this has been trialed with a stock na rb30 vl , but there is a fella who made a twin tb intake for his vl , though he went to a different computer so as to not run air flow meters , but he actually made quite a noticeable improvement in power , maybe something like this would work on a rb25 aswell. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/20/#findComment-471384 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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