R33 Rb30 Conversion

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

Put the back of the car up on stands. The higher the better. Then guide the gearbox down through the tunnel as you go. It's a tight fit but easy if you change the angle of the engine as you lower it.(start with the engine high and gearbox low and end with them almost level). As far as RB25det gearbox into R32 I am not sure if the crossmember will line up and you may need a new tailshaft made.

[Bl4cK32]

Put the back of the car up on stands. The higher the better. Then guide the gearbox down through the tunnel as you go. It's a tight fit but easy if you change the angle of the engine as you lower it.(start with the engine high and gearbox low and end with them almost level). As far as RB25det gearbox into R32 I am not sure if the crossmember will line up and you may need a new tailshaft made.

Already have the modified crossmember to bolt it up, and a custom 1 piece tailshaft Thanks for the advice though, didnt think of jacking the rear of the car up.

[riceline]

Hey guys

Well the RB30 bottom end is mostly together.

Have got the Crank, Cradle and pistons all in the block. All of it very well oiled up. Defiantly no where near as hard as I first thought it would be... Having my girlfriends old man as an ex mechanic has also helped in a big way

Everything in it is turning nicely. Have got the cradle torque up to the right tension (thanks Meggla Just am trying to find out what torque settings the nuts on the bottom of the rods should be set at? - If you have pulled it apart it’s the nuts that actually hold the rods/rod caps onto the crank that I’m asking about. I have them tightened up just wanted to know the correct torque settings so I can do them up on the torque wrench?

Also I know about the Why and some of the How of running the oil line to the head for the VCT. E.g. putting in a copper T piece so that the oil can be separated at the oil pressure sender... only thing I would like to know now.... how you get the T piece into the block and one into the head? My mate says that he has an Idea of how to do it, but I would much rather have a little bit of knowledge about it first.

All that I have left to do is put on the Idler bearing and the bottom end without the rb25 donation bits is complete

While I’m at it what torque settings should be used for the timing belt? and what settings for the head?

Thanks guys

Hope you have/had a great Christmas. Wish all of you the best for the New Year

[dontfeelcold]

wanted to know if the rb25det gearbox fits into a R31 skyline, if the gearstick sticks up the hole in the tunnel, and if the gearbox crossmember mounts line up with the where the rb30e 'box bolts to.

was wondering how the rb25det computer would go on the rb30det with 9:1cr?

Is it ok to machine the block to get the 9:1cr, and if so how much do you take off the block when using rb30 N/A pistons?

i want to do the conversion the cheap way like 25t did, he said had to hato increase the timing. how do adjust this if the rb25det has electronic ignition?

or should i leave the compression alone as i will be running the standard r33 gtst turbo

[riceline]

There is No "cheap" way to do the conversion. No matter what way you do it at MIN you are going to loose a bit over a grand to it. And that’s if you do 90% of the work yourself. I have done all that I possibly could myself and I'm currently sitting on $916 spent (not using forgies) and to compare that to some of the others in this thread I have spent nothing. With still some more stuff to pick up. I would not worry about a little lower compression (well I'm not) as you have an extra 500CC's of engine size in there (just imagine what those 500CC motorbikes do) so enjoy the fact that your engine is a little more nock resistant due to the lower CR. If it concerns you that much put in a little more boost or something. I'm currently doing this motor and then looking at going to the Vg30/Rb30 hybrid turbo after its run in.

just did some looking at meggala's site again and found the head torque settings

thanks meggala

Head torque settings

These are the specs I used on my own last rebuild as supplied by Hytech engines

Head is torqued down in 5 stages.

1. 22ftlbs

2. 72ftlbs

3. slacken off

4. 22ftlbs

5. 75ftlbs or 90o

[riceline]

Hey guys.

Hopefully sombody has read this by now. How does one get the Copper T-Peice into the block?

thanks guys

ok i just took a few pic's of the block in its current setup.

I just baught and put on a oil filter so that I may be able to get a little more of an idea of what I am looking at here.

I have edited a pic and I hope that I have pointed to the pressure sendor that I am trying to find out about. I have put a light down that hole and it is threaded so I'm asuming that I can put a screw in T-Peice into it... it does have a line coming from the oil filter part to that bit that I have pointed out.

[dontfeelcold]

can the R33 gtst ecu be chipped so it can be tuned to the rb30det properly (proper air/fuel mix etc).

If it cant, can an after market ecu be plugged straight into the existing loom without modifying the loom.

I want to do the conversion like 25t did. with the exception of forged pistons, as i will probably want a bit more power out of it at a later stage, plus a bit more reliability.

Can anyone recommend where i can get a rb25det from in sydney. the cheapest ive seen is $2800

Anyone know about the rb25det gearbox fitting in a r31? any problems?

[dontfeelcold]

was reading up on specs of r33 rb25det. it had 9:1cr. does anyone make pistons to get this cr or can you machine some material off the block. I dont see why you couldn't do this (its not going to reduce the block that much that it will machne something off that is not supposed to).

Its been mentioned alot that 9:1 cr is good but no one has mentioned a way of doing it.

(sorry, i like to ask questions)

[riceline]

Hey Don't Feel Cold

this has been answered way back in this thread... First few pages of it were about piston's and CR from memory.

Have a look there. I really think you are worrying to much about the .5 CR ratio. Save the money from doing the .5 more cr ratio and get boost controler or somthing.

As for the 25det ecu - no it can not be chipped or modified. its one of the only ones that nisssan made that could not be changed (I think). 25T is running the 25det ecu with no current problems. All he did was advance the timing out to 25deg's Advanced and all ran sweet for him.

[Steve]

Remeber, the RB30 bottom end will give a ton more torque than the RB25. CR is important when you have shorter stroke engines, as torque generally isnt as high as a longer stroke engine (or more accurately a higher rod ratio) - point in case the SR20 has more torque than an RB25 stock.

Have a look at the thread by RIPS, it has a link to his dyno and the torque is just insane.

[JNR24]

Hi Peoples,

I have just put a few pics on my homepage for now. If anyones intrested jump in and take a look.

I am also building a "better" site, (hosted,Domainname etc) so this is just a interm mesure.

I will be putting heaps more content on there aswell as pics & "how-to"s.

The project schedule isnt up yet, but will be shortly.

(Any suggestions, please send me a email)

[email protected]

Cheers Guys,

http://home.iprimus.com.au/eviemo/index.htm

[Spoolup]

JNR24 - what sort of rods are you using ?

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys I don't care what I try, I can never get back the response I loose when I sacrifice compression ratio. Everything you do to get it back doesn't work as well as it would if you had that extra 0.5 to 1. My suggestion is to always do it whenever you have the chance. You may not get another.

[Cubes]

You can always throw in a thicker head gasket if that .5 really causes that many problems.

In Dyno2003 you 'apparently' need to run an extra .15 bar if you drop .5 of a compression ratio to make the same power.

Does this sound about right Gary?

[JNR24]

JNR24 - what sort of rods are you using ?

Shot-peened, cyro freezed, polished, stockers! =)

When i get my motor back, (on the 5th of jan) i will post pics of the diffrence between a stock rod and one thats been polished, shot-peened etc.

[Spoolup]

what did the finished rods cost you ?

[GiJOr33]

you can go to the expense of carrillo rods or other aftermarket items which are lighter and stronger, but you really have to make sure you want to make the sort of power that stock rods can't handle as they are generally over $2000 for a good set of rods.

and if anyone wants some stock RB30 rods, let me know.

[JNR24]

what did the finished rods cost you ?

For all 6, (exlcuding the purchase of the rods) about $120, but i polished them myself.

I think the shot peening was $80 and the freeze was $40.

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

JNR24- Nice turbo on your site. I think you will be happy with it.

<-------- This one is the 600HP one on my car. I didn't bother getting it polished.

[JNR24]

What RPM do you think the barsted will come on? A/R = 1.04

I just had mine polished! Very cheap too! cost me uner $20, and since its a high-mount its gota look pretty... =)

You cant go wrong with the GTs...