Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just spoke to serco or as u call it wiseco they say if u use Forge pistons to suit na rb30 you need 2 mm head gasket to get 8.5-1 CR so i think the CR debate should be verified

this is using rb25de head this is what the guy said to suit this combo

not sure if this is correct

some of this info can be very confusing for an amature engine builder being a tradesman myself wrong information can lead to un desired results

if anyone can shed some light on this using wiseco NA forged pistons ie give a part number for an exact measured CR using the piston with correct head gasket would be very valuable info for this build up

just spoke to serco or as u call it wiseco they say if u use Forge pistons to suit na rb30 you need 2 mm head gasket to get 8.5-1 CR so i think the CR debate should be verified  

this is using rb25de head this is what the guy said to suit this combo  

not sure if this is correct  

some of this info can be very confusing for an amature engine builder being a tradesman myself wrong information can lead to un desired results  

if anyone can shed some light on this using wiseco NA forged pistons ie give a part number for an exact measured CR using the piston with correct head gasket would be very valuable info for this build up

Did you ask the guy why their catalogue looks to be so far out? It makes no sense, they have incorrect combustion chamber CC's, conrod lengths are inconsistent etc

Hi OVL-747, if the pipework is causing a restriction then it is too small.

sk - its not so much the i/d of the pipe , as its 2 ans 3/4 inch , but it has a conduluted plastic/rubber pipe , which is woefull on air flow.

thats why i have pissed all mine off in favour of nice stainless , with no afm either.

HKS 3037 ProS has internal wastegate..... looks stock.

GT30, GT35 need external wastegate. Very naughty! approx $2600 + $700 for w/g + $??? to modify manifold and w/g dump pipe.

Prices would come out close, depending on the duties imposed on the 3037.

Nothing naughty about external wastegates at all.

And like GiJOr33 said.. if you are going for such a turbo why not take advantage of it and use an custom manifold.. for the record garret GT35's can be had for $2000, brand spanking new. *looks at GT35R :D *

no - too big for a 'normal' rb25

Nothing stock looking about a 3037PROS

Skyrine Dave - the whole garrett vs HKS thing has been discussed in depth in a monstor thread, so if you want several opinions, try a search:)

Yeah not too big... but i think a 2835R turbo would be a damn good match for an RB25. Big enough to give good flow and power, and small enough so that boost comes on early enough to use it on the street. The 3040 turbo's are good too... better for slight modded RB25's like forged pistons as you can then run some higher boost and get some good power out of it.

I don't know what the HKS 2835R or HKS 3040 would compare to in the Garret range (even though the HKS turbos are based on Garret) as i dont know too much about garret turbo's!

for the record garret GT35's can be had for $2000, brand spanking new.

Where?

I didn't think external gates were 'road legal'. Or is that just if it has a screamer pipe?

For those of you who have purchased a turbo from Greenline, how much did it cost all up? Just wondering what duties, taxes and shipping costs applied.

Anyone??

no - too big for a 'normal' rb25

Nothing stock looking about a 3037PROS

Skyrine Dave - the whole garrett vs HKS thing has been discussed in depth in a monstor thread, so if you want several opinions, try a search:)

I well know the difference and facts :D, i was more questioning why you would want an HKS turbo for almost twice the price and less potential

i too think intergates on larger turbos are a waste of time... if you aer going for a large HP flow tubo, use an external gate.

Monsta: external venting wastegates (ie screamer pipe) are illegal. But external wastegates that are plumbed back into the exhaust are perfecly fine and legal *in most sates that arent overly nazi on mods

Hi All

Fantastic thread......

I am considering creating one of these frankensteins for my R31 Skyline Sedan.

So most of it should be fairly straight forward.

1. Has anyone used an auto? What power levels can the Auto delivered in Aus

Series 3 Skylines handle (the 4 speed Electronic). What about the RB25DE Auto.

(p.s. Yes I can drive a manual thanks very much) :wassup:

2. Cruise control, throttle cable. I can see that the throttle cable goes directly from the drivers side of the engine bay, on the R31 it loops around and comes

in from the passenger side, I have factory cruise control that comes in from the

passenger side also. Has anyone seen a R32 half cut with the cruise control solenoid and linkage on the throttle body.

3. Looms, I am going to use a R32 RB25DE Loom prob from a half cut, do the engine sensor>ECU part of the loom seperate reasonably easily from the rest of

the loom.

4. Insurance, as my car is currently NA I will have to let the insurance company

know that it will be turbo, (pretty obvious if they do an inspection). What

insurance companies are good with this sort of thing.

5. Turbo, the factory RB25DET Turbo may not last if you increase the boost too

much, what about other Import Turbos, say from a Supra or something, is there

something that will bolt on to a RB25DET exhaust manifold and offer a benefit.

I am only looking for arounf 200-240rwkw

Sorry for all the questions, but this is the most knowledge that I have seen in the

one place for a long time.

:( Maxy

behind a half decent rb30DET, i would give the aus series 3 auto prehaps 10minutes of life.

if you want an auto, either jatco (vl, vl-t, series 1&2 r31) and get it rebuilt and strengthened, or get a trimatic and also get it strengthened.

no idea about the later model auto's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...