Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bigmaxy: it would work and be a true straight line monster.. but you're going to have problems with diffs, gearboxes and the like using much of the aussie R31ness.. and I wouldn't want to be cornering in an aussie R31 with 300rwkw or so on tap ! I have both an aussie R31 and R33 turbo, and the handling differences are pretty large.

I would probably just go for a straight swap RB20DET or RB25DET in there. No need to pull apart an engine and should be fine with stock internals for the power you want of around 250rwkw. That way you can just drop it in.

If you're really keen RB31DET is a monster, but in an aussie R31 i wouldn't be bothering unless you wanted a drag car, as it will probably throw you off at the nearest corner.

Hi, I have afew Q's

Awesome post, but a little to long to read on my lunch break

I am interested in performing this transplant into my r32, what is the total cost of the motor + extras

Do you need to perform any custom mods to fit to an r32, mounts, crossmember etc

How much heavier is the rb30/25det than the rb20det, will i need to upgrade suspension brakes, is it heavy enough to upset the handeling?

Hey guys, im running a GT3040 with the .82 AR axhaust.

People keep telling me it's going to be to small on my RB30 and run out up top?

Will I get the 500HP at the engine I want? Or is it going to be too small??

If thats the same as the 2.41/3.22in comp wheel 550hp GT30 on Ray Halls site, then yes, it looks like it'll give you your 500hp at the engine. I would have gone with the 1.06 exh AR too if I as using a GT30. Run it as is and see if its what you want. A exhaust housing swap to 1.06 is relatively cheap if it doesn't work out.

I'd be interested to see how a 1.06 exh AR 600hp GT30 compares with a 0.82 AR exh 620hp GT35. The GT35 is the turbo I'm considering using.

Gradenko.. stay tuned because i have a GT35r with 0.82 exh housing... hopefully it will spool up quickly and hold good torque throw the entire rev range, tho i thought it might be a bit too small to reach high 400 low 500hp@wheels

Well I have the GT3040 to try.. my manifold has been modded to fit it.

When you say boost to fast? Do you mean it will hit all of a sudden rather than more gradual with a bigger exhaust housing??

I have a T88 33D in the garage... but I think I will like the smaller turbo a little better :P

Laying them next to each other though, the bell mouths are the same size... haha.

yep,

Boost comes on EXTREAMLY sharp, and fast. :P (boost comes on with allmost same response as a supercharger charger, except without the linear boost rate of a charger.)

Gees... T88 33D would be diffrent, provided you have a 8K auto with transbrake and 12" slicks. :(

Not sure yet, will get it weighed when it's actually finished..

Probably not a hell of a lot lighter than a Skyline by the time it's all togethor.

RB30 + Bar and Plate cooler, and all the other turbo parts really add up in weight.

Have got fibreglass front guards and a carbon bonnet for the thing so that should help...

Not sure yet, will get it weighed when it's actually finished..

Probably not a hell of a lot lighter than a Skyline by the time it's all togethor.

RB30 + Bar and Plate cooler, and all the other turbo parts really add up in weight.

Have got fibreglass front guards and a carbon bonnet for the thing so that should help...

Yep, that's what I have found with the 1 X RB engined Silvia I have weighed. The guy wanted to do it 'cause it weighed 250 kgs less than an R32GTST Skyline. Then he added the Skyline engine, front subframe, gearbox, tail shaft, diff, drive shafts, brakes, hubs, rear subframe, wheels, intercooler, oil cooler, radiator etc. Bingo it now weighed the same as an R32 GTST Skyline. It was a total waist of time, money and effort.

Now that's a sample of 1, maybe not representative. Let me know what yours comes in at.

i have been quoted ~$770 i think it was...

Std rods with Lininished, resized, rebushed small ends, arp rod

bolts fitted approx $670, $100 for new bearings

I have also spoken to a friend who said it cost him $250 for a set of 6 rods to get shot peened..

hmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...