Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys theres an engine being sold on ebay if anyones interested RB25 headhigh mount extractors for a t04 turbo with t3 flange worked with stock cams two inlet manifolds and an rb 25 block Rb 30 block pistons and rods i think for the 3.0l rb block $500.Plus i think all the hard work like matching the head to the block has been done allready.He claims that he has made 770 hp from it in his race car?????Its worth being checked out.But the price may go up because of the bidding.....Worth a look. :flamed:

Thanx Gary,

 

Which valve springs do you use? A set of GTR springs should will do the job?

Hi Joel, when I said "we always upgrade the valve springs" that includes GTR's. We use Iskenderian.

rob from RIPS is a nice enough guy but what he charges for the work he does its bloody highway robbery... he want 3,400+ shipping for a rb30 converted to take a 4wd sump??????? then wont tell you what your getting done for your money???? WTF

Plus he said that would be standard internal put new bearings???? again WTF

PRIMO check back a few pages the issues of the 4wd system on the rb30 have been discussed there, if you are keen to hold off a few months i am doing all the work required to make this work and will gladley tell you step by step what it takes to make this work its not really that hard as long as you have a good machinist shop you can talk to and access to some cluey engine builder!!!

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,  

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?  

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

HOLY CRAP. I started at page one. I looked and there was 8 more pages so i went to last and i find out there is 50+ pages.... eek... Anyway great thread. I am looking to to the RB30E.

Does anyone know what the stock specs on the RB30E is? I love in the states so where would be a good spot to buy an RB30 clip or motor set?

S13drifter ok when you get urs done let me know i assumed it would not be hard if you had all the machining equipment ,  

It is only a slab of steel used to replace the main bearing cradle and also bolt to the exsisting sump bolts ussing resessed bolts the utilising new bolt holes for the 4WD sump am i correct ?  

i would assume this would relieve any stress on the block also.

The RB26 main bearing cradle is separate from the sump mounting system, same as RB30. The only difference between the RB26 block and the RB30 block at the sump mount is the RB26 block is much wider (mostly at the rear) and has extra threaded holes (further out) to mount the sump, diff and transfer shaft to.

Guys;

Has anyone actually done this and had good long term success in terms of durability and power? I'm keen to do it but a shop in Sydney who has a lot of experience with GTRs and the RB30 conversion on other cars has warned me against it, saying that RB30 blocks are too weak to continually take the torsional stresses of a high power 4wd and are prone to cracking (whereas a 2wd will just light up the rears). I'd be more than happy with 400 4wkw, which it won't see regularly and as it's a daily driver it's the torque I'm after.

I understand RIPS in NZ has a strong GTS4. They don't appear to have a website so I've sent an email and will follow up with a phone call later to see if I can find out more from them.

Thanks for any feedback.

Done some more research on suitable timing belts. Dayco have a belt the same profile as a 94407 (152 teeth) but with 150 teeth, Part no. 94777. This could be used with 2 adjustable tensioners in the factory locations as per the Gates belt setup in Joel's guide. Only issue is this belt is 23mm wide rather than the factory 25mm. Dayco tell me this is not a problem, but they also follow up the e-mail with a disclaimer.... "however please be mindful as we don't list this belt for this application you have requested there will be now warranty to cover consequential damage should something go wrong - we'll cover the belt, but that's it." Probably standard arse covering fare, but it makes me uncertain if it will do the job.

I realise the 94407 will do the job, but why drill & tap another hole and risk ****ing it up if i don't have to.

I'm interested to hear others thoughts on the 23mm belt. Will it hold up to 500 BHP??

heres a rough pic of what the spacer/girdle has to look like to adapt the rb30 block to the rb26 sump (sorry for the crudness of the picture had to be made small and rough to fit).. PRIMO as gary mentioned the crank girdle has nothing to do with the conversion exept the rb26 one has the windage tray as part of the girdle and the rb30 has it in the sump you can either tap holes and fit it to the rb30 girdle or as im doing use the rb26 girdle and get the block and girdle squared and line honed!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...