Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case. "

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case.  "

Yes this mod works fine for BNR32 + HR32 PowerFC. Only ECR33 PowerFC it goes bang

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
haha yeah good idea

shoulda seen the look on my face when i had pacman characters running around on the hand controller screen and pshyco ticking noises coming from the powerfc

im sure that would have been followed by some VERY colourful words :lol:

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

If it's a high flowed RB20DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 260 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 270 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET Neo turbo it will run out of airflow at around 280 rwkw

That's not your main problem, the RB30ET pistons with an RB25 head will have very, very low compression ratio (in the 7's). That's why we use the RB30E.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted

with the rb30e, are the stock rods and slugs strong enough to take the beating? or a $2500 aftermarket jobs the go? think cheap, thats wat im trying to do.... i know i know, cheap usualling ends up being "cheap", but i dnt av THAT ammount of money lying around atm...

I just want to build a torquey motor, turbo upgrade can wait. so 270kw? a the wheels im guessing? why did this guy tell me 320? is he just having a wank? or is he just trying to get work from me?

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better.

Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... :rofl:

Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time?

A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

So definitely rb30 related?

Sorry mate, I missed the question. Wasn't meaning to be rude.

Basically all steel things have a fatigue load limit. Below that load you can load infinitely (faults notwithstanding) and it won't fail, but increase the load, or in this case torque, and eventually it will start to crack slightly more and more each load cycle until the cross sectional area holding it is too small and just lets go, like the coathanger.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
The rb30 vl type blocks dont have oil squirters. only the rb20,25,26 have them. a lot of ppl put the rb25det squirters in the rb30 conversions tho...

It's a bustard of a job (= costly), and only about 2 in 10 RB30 blocks are suitable. Ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts, just as effective.

:rofl: cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...