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The rb25/26/20 cams are interchangeable if you don't mind ditching the VCT and throwing an adj. cam gear on there instead.

What exactly do you mean by bare? No valves etc? or just no manifolds?

Drop Salad a pm see if he is interested as he recently munched his due to lack of oil in the top end as the bottom end let go.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m21548.html

I just picked up a timing belt for mine.

Its made by Gates. its an OEM replacement belt with the numbers on it 5425 XS - 90152 x 25mm. fairly inexpensive too at an RRP of $54.

Comparing it to a Gates racing RB25 belt i have here there doesn't seem to be anything visibly different (apart from the colour and length) between the two.

oh sweet so i can use the 20det cam shafts and just chuck in after market cam gears correct?

Im planning on replacing the cam shafts in future when i get more money together.

The r33 head i have is basically the head with no manifolds, cams shafts or gears....hope that helps cube?

hey all..

just about to start my first motor build, glad i chose the rb25/30 :thumbsup:

its for my a31 cefiro, as after a recent run at the track cracked 4 rings and a few rooted valves on my rb20.

my plans are a decent condition series 2 bottom end..

with everything converted from my rb20 ie. balancer, power steering etc

using the high low setup for the dayco timing belt

genuine replacement rings and a hone

check bottom end bearings and such.

hoping for r32 rb25de head..

machined head

aftermarket valve springs

genuine head gasket

possible rb25det oil pump?? (crank collar needed??)

tomei oil restrictors

they are parts required.

on my rb20 i was running

hks cast low mount manifold

hks 38mm external gate

hks to4e turbo

3inch turbo to tip no cat no mufflers

isc front mount cooler

shitty bleed valve

walbro fuel pump.

plan to use all them on the rb25/30

whats everyone think of that setup??

im not after huge power, happy as larry with anything near 200rwkw

will be using stock afm, injectors and ecu for run in period..

then upgrade injectors and afm and get ecu remap...

what power is accheivable??

this thread is the bomb..

took me about 4 days to read all 335 pages but its so worth it :thumbsup:

cheers guys

on my rb20 i was waiting on gtr injectors and a z32afm before i got a remap.... during the time i was going yo buy the injectors and that i realiesed its not worth fixing the 20 when i can build my own..

not quite sure what the turbo is capable of pushing..

previous owner has told me he was running roughly 220 at the wheels at 16psi..

not sure how much boost or anything ican safelly run threw the turbo..

what do ya recomened max boost for th 25/30??

with adequte fuelling and tunning ofcourse

Well if you hadn't maxxed the turbo then you should be able to make a bit more than you were making (whatever that was).

I did pretty much a direct back to back, same turbo (25s1) on a 20 and a 30.. made the same power but a lot earlier.

oh okay thats good news..

keep the motor alive a bit longer with the less revs..

can ya think of anything else i shoud maybe add to the actuall motor build?

and do you know if the crank collar is a mut have when using a rb25 turbo oil pump??

Why use the RB25 oil pump when you could use a 26 oil pump that will take more abuse for not much more?

The only cranks that dont need it are R33 and R34 GTR cranks (and a couple of late model R32 GTR cranks) All the RB20, RB25, and RB30 cranks need the longer oil pump drive if you want it to last.

Edited by TiTAN
Well if you hadn't maxxed the turbo then you should be able to make a bit more than you were making (whatever that was).

I did pretty much a direct back to back, same turbo (25s1) on a 20 and a 30.. made the same power but a lot earlier.

Did you compare the boost run to make the same power.

My Rb20det turbo used 6psi less boost with the 25 head on the rb30 to make the same power.

bubbabooga/Titan.

The std RB26 pump is the RB25det pump. The N1 pumps internal gears are hardened but this is because there is less meat. Hardened = more brittle so more likely to smash when loaded unevenly via a short crank oil pump drive and bouncing off the limiter. :S

Same turbo, same actuator, same controller, same boost.

The only things different were z32 afm (was maxxing the stocker) and 550cc injectors (did them at the same time as the afm) and a minor tune to run them.

yeah thats what i had red.. that rb25 nd rb26 oil pumps are idenical.

only the N1's wre a bit different.

so i should use the full length crank collar when using the rb25 oil pump??

doing it on a average budget..

and i know its gong to be a slow build.. haha

plan on setting rev limit at roughly 7000rpm.

anyone elseodne this in cefiro??

i so how id ya go with bonnet shutting?

will prob lower crossmembe while i have the motor out..

Same turbo, same actuator, same controller, same boost.

The only things different were z32 afm (was maxxing the stocker) and 550cc injectors (did them at the same time as the afm) and a minor tune to run them.

Not surprisingly the rb20det turbo simply could not keep up. :thumbsup:

176rwkw on 9psi boost would just not hold from the 12psi straight off the actuator with no boost controller.

Why use the RB25 oil pump when you could use a 26 oil pump that will take more abuse for not much more?

The only cranks that dont need it are R33 and R34 GTR cranks (and a couple of late model R32 GTR cranks) All the RB20, RB25, and RB30 cranks need the longer oil pump drive if you want it to last.

Same pump as best as I could find. Same flowrate and didn't appear to have any physical differences.

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