Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, umm it seems that my headlight on the RHS is nearly stuffed... My car was fitted with 50 watt globes and were very dull, almost dangerously dull, so i got some 100 watt ones and since then all hell has broken lose! Im not sure what is involved in the compliance process to fit globes that meet australian rules. But my mechanic has always seemed to have had a huge amount of troubble fitting the globes in the housing. Ill try describe it to everyone.

Theres a small washer that the globe sits in, round with one side squared off for the flat edge of the globe to sit agains, then both the globe and the washer sit back in behind the headlight unit. but with mine, there didnt seem to be an easy way to get the washer and globe to lock back in place, so that the globe is properly alligned. Now, when i had my 100watt globes fitted everything seemed to be fixed... nice clear bright lights, but about 1 week after they were fitted, i thought one had blown again, the right hand side one, but when i pulled the globe out to see why it had blown after only a week i saw that the washer has melted some how around the base bit of the globe. So it probly hasnt been sitting/alligned correctly since they were fitted, and the extra heat from the 100watt globes has melted the unique little washer thingy, and its stuck to the globe now....

I dont no wot to do.. The globe hasnt blown, but i think its shorting out somehow. Has anyone else experienced this at all?? How can i go about getting it fixed? Should i contact a compliance place and see if mine has been done dogely? Plz help.... im desperate!!

wat the hell is a washer bottle doing near the headlight.....is that normal?

100watt globe woulda melted the bottle and settled all over ur headlights.

best bet is to bring it to someone and try machine all that crap off......

gl man sounds bad.....

Well from memory theres meant to be a wire clip which folds back over the globe back .. I dont know what the hell happened to ur headlights but I got off lucky with my compliance...

Neways my advice is save up for some R34 GTR lights .. about $500-700 difference is they are black!! the surrounds .. Or even just buy a HID setup! group buy on here!

Why is it necessary to post things up in many different threads. It's just stupid mate.

I actually replied to you in your other thread, but I feel like deleting my reply now.

Anyways, I do research experimentation on optics and lighting circuitry, so if you need advice, pm me.

  • 4 months later...

dude ive got the exact same problem...

once u take it out u cant properly put it back in place again.

i did that mistake this arvo..tried to find out wat size my bulbs were..

took it out and the washer just came off..

tried to put it back in place again but my washer snapped. and the element inside the bulb snapped off from violent knocks.

its fking bullshit. i dont know wat to do now since the washer is FKED.

mine 2 is an r34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...