Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

There is this loud screaching noise when the car hasnt been started for a few hours or in the morning. Now i know the noise is coming from one of the recently replaced water pump, ac or power steering belts and goes away after a few seconds and stays quiet when im driving. Im thinking the mechanic either didnt tension the belt enough or to much? Or does this usually happen for the first few times with new belts once they are changed. Any feedback is appreciated thanks

Yeah its a belt. You can also buy a product from CRC i think, its a non slip sticky spray on stuff for belts. But you shouldnt need it. Just tighten them. Thats what i did when i had the exact same prob as you.

Thanks for the reply guys, its my regular mechanic so they will no doubt fix it for free i just thought maybe it would go away by itself after a while but looks like ye they didnt tighten it enough.

Thanks again

could also be caused by a small person caight in the engine bay. anytime you start the car it hurts so they scream.

That or a loose fan belt....tighten up the alternator adjuster

most probable that the belts have been put on too tight. U can adjust the tension in a few minutes with a shifter,

PM me for details on how to do this, I had this problem too when putting new belts on, they usually do it a bit tight to allow for stretching over time

Thanks for the feedback guys, i did adjust the alternator adjustment screw a little bit because i thought it was a little loose, then took it back to the mechanics and he said its fine because he didnt want to tighten it to much because it will put to much strain on the water pump and bearing if it was to tight. Maybe some grease or something got onto the belt while it was changed. Ill give it over the weekend to fix itself, if not back to the drawing board on monday i think hrmmm

ya same, my starter motor used to make a screeching noise only when it was cold. i took her out and slapped some grease in, hasnt done it since.

might even be the starter motor

mine was makn a screachin noise, still havent got it fixed.

  • 4 months later...

hey guys, im having the same issue atm with this. I put some no slip spray on it and this stopped the noise from happening as much, but it only lasted about a week or 2...

can anyone point me in the right direction of what screw i need to tighten, with maybe an image or something? Or where to locate it, any help would be awesome

As someone said they stretch over time. So when you first put them on, and adjust them to the right tension, they shoudl be all good, then as they over the next couple of hundred k's, you redadjust them again.

How does grease help the problem? I can see how grease would stop the noise (by lubricating), but I can't see the grease making the belt "grip" the pulley better. Unless it gets absorbed into the rubber over time and moistens it up or something?????? Kind of like, when you drive with wet shoes, it's slippery at first, but after it starts drying out it gets to a REALLY grippy stage....

Avoid using belt grip sprays.. they usually dont do much if anything at all.

If the belt is tensioned enough get a stick of dri-lube, and run it along the belt (carefully!) while the engine is idling until the noise stops.

Even the slightest bit of grease off the mechanics hands, while fitting, is enough to make the belt noisy.

If you can twist the belt about 3/4 of a turn is a good place to start and very very small adjustments until it stops making the noise.

Check out what a tight belt will do and i have done a OEM and N1 in the same way.

post-28646-1181502917_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
    • I have an elite 2500 running an adapter harness on an rb25de neo r34. I took the butterfly out and removed all that junk. But I also went Plus+t at the same time. The butterfly thing works in reverse to the boost solenoid on the Gtt if that makes sense
    • yeh they are 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in the rears. I still didn't get my answer if i can fit a 18x9 up front. I want to get 4 of this and see if they will fit before committing as they didn't see an 18x8 as an option but there is a 18x9.5 also.   Enkei RS05-RR 18x9 35mm ET 5x114.3 75.0 Bore Matte Gunmetal Wheel
×
×
  • Create New...