Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WELL I NEED TO CLEAN OUT A FEW THINGS I HAVE PACKED AWAY!!!!

1ST. TURBO SMART PLUMBBACK AND TRUMPET BOV BEST OF THE BEST MADE BY TURBOSMART.

I GOT IT NEW FOR JUST OVER $500 ABOUT A YEAR AGO. BUT CHANGED OVER TO JUST A SMALL PLUMB BACK(COPS) ITS LOUD... AND ITS REAL GOOD FOR IF YOUR CAR STALLS FROM NOT HAVING A PLUMB BACK BOV, CAUSE YOU CAN HAVE SOME VENTING LOUD, AND SOME GOING BACK THROUGH THE INTAKE TO KEEP THE CAR RUNNING HAPPY!!!

TAKE IT OFF MY HANDS FOR $250

PERFECT CONDITION. AS PER PIC!

painting170.jpg

2ND BLITZ VOICE GUIDE TURBO TIMER.(RARE)

ITS SOME COOL STUFF, ON START UP A SEXY SOUNDING JAP CHICK SPEAKS TO YOU, AND ALSO ON COUNT DOWN!! ITS SOME COOL STUFF!!!! IT WORKS 100% PERFECT AND IS COOL TO TRIP PEOPLE OUT!

EASY TO WIRE UP! I CAN GIVE YOU A QUICK GUIDE ON THAT GOES WERE. OR IS SIMPLE ENOUGH TO FIND ON GOOGLE!

AS WELL AS WORKING PERFECT IT IS IN 100% PERFECT CONDITION! AS PER PIC!

PUT IT IN YOUR CAR FOR ONLY $120

painting167.jpg

3RD DIAL CLUSTER OUT OF A 1992 R32 GTS-T TYPE M

ALL DIALS WORK, CLOCK WORKS, ALL SWEET.... PLASTIC HAS NO DAMAGE...

AS PER PIC. ITS YOURS FOR $100

painting175.jpg

4TH RB26DETT TIMING BELT COVER, PAINTER IN BLUE TO PURPLE FLIP COLOUR PAINT! WAS GOING TO PUT ON THE RB20DET BUT IT WONT FIT :)

$50 TAKE IT AWAY!!!

painting172.jpg

5TH AC CONTROLLER FOR A R32 HAVE TESTED IN MY CAR AND WORKS LIKE NORMAL! $70

painting182.jpg

6TH 2 SETS OF R32 GTS-T ORANGE BLINKERS. ALL OF THEM ARE 100% PERFECT

ONE SET EVEN HAS THE WIRING AND LIGHTS STILL WITH IT! SOLD AS PAIRS... NOT SINGLES!

$140 FOR A PAIR IS A GREAT PRICE!

painting184.jpg

7TH A SET OF R32 GTS-T TAIL LIGHTS. COMES WITH PAINTED BEZELS, AND EVEN LIGHT BLOBE BALAST WITH ALL GLOBES... IS A SCRATCH IN PAINT ON ONE, BUT NOT BAD.. WILL BUFF OUT!!! FOR $150 FOR THE WHOLE SET IS YOURS.

painting186.jpg

8TH POWER UP 2 STAGE BOOST CONTROLLER. I HAVE HAD THIS IN MY CAR FOR ABOUT 3 MONTHS AND HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH IT! EASY TO USE. THE STICKER HAS GONE, CAUSE DEGEESER GOT ON IT AND SMUDGES THE STICKER SO I PULLED IT OFF!

I =FIRST STAGE, AND FLICK A SWITCH AND II=2ND BOOST SETTING!

I WAS RUNNING 10PSI, AND STAGE 2 WAS 12PSI... DIDNT FIND IT SPIKED AT ALL!!! GOOD FOR THE MONEY!

$100

painting188.jpg

HAVE TO FIND OUT HOW MUCH MY GIRL FRIEND WANTS FOR HER HEAD UNIT!!! ITS ONLY 3 MONTHS OLD, AND IS VERY SMICK!

painting192.jpg

FEEL FREE TO E MAIL ME OR MSN([email protected]) OR TEXT 0423320844

ITEMS ARE IN BUNDABERG QLD.

CHEERS

KEZZA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154708-for-sale-get-in-now/
Share on other sites

$50 for head unit?

sorry mate, sold and i fitted it this morning!

I know a good glass...plastic place to repair that nismo r34 damage lol

True, lol. the poor thing, was going to make it lighter without window, you know bit more speed in it!!! lol

Hey Kezza, that Blitz VGTT is the shiznit, I had one in my skyline when I first bought it, but it got taken out when I had a full python remote-start alarm/immobiliser (including Turbo-timer) installed and it got replaced.

But noy the new python isnt working anymore and I want to swap back to the VGTT, I've looked for links or instructions but I couldnt find.

Hey Kezza, that Blitz VGTT is the shiznit, I had one in my skyline when I first bought it, but it got taken out when I had a full python remote-start alarm/immobiliser (including Turbo-timer) installed and it got replaced.

But noy the new python isnt working anymore and I want to swap back to the VGTT, I've looked for links or instructions but I couldnt find.

its easy dude,

purple =hand brake

orange = speed sensor wire

white=is only for autos

red is= constant 12v power off the key

blue= ACC

green= ON

about 10min to wire up!!

Interested in the boost controller. How much to post to the sunny coast 4573?

ill have to find out, or you may be able to find out.. my post code is 4670

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...