Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I've just installed a Power FC pro (RB251PRO) for my R33 GTST. it's the correct model as far as I can tell.

The hand commander fires up and doesnt hang or anything. There are no errors in the sensor screen. I've turned the boost controller off in the HC.

When I switch to ignition, my fuel pump doesnt prime, and if i crank it it doesnt fire. Replacing it with the stock ECU and fuel pump primes, and it fires up.

Anyone have any ideas ? I'd be really gutted if i cant use this ECU :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154721-car-wont-start-with-powerfc-pro/
Share on other sites

i had a look at mine just now... i dont have the F/P light greyed out until i start the engine... also, the O2H light on mine isnt greyed out either.

i think the pic from the faq is when the engine has started..

i dont no if this is a good or bad idea.. but i did it when i had some fuel pump issues recently, she wouldnt prime etc.. i dont wana see any tears if anything blows up or something though :)

i grounded the neg wire (blue wire if i recall correctly) on the fuel pump connector in the boot and it seemed to bypass the ecu controlling it and make it work :P It was like doing that mod people do to make it run at full voltage or woteva.

could it be a dodgy ground or power feed? and maybe the powerfc is more sensitive to it than the stock ecu ? :S

yes. i've seen this a lot of times. the PFC seems much more sensitve to a good power feed and good earth than the stock ecu. so check your power feed to the ECU, and maybe check your grounds too. or even tee in another ground and run it to a suitable spot.

i dont no if this is a good or bad idea.. but i did it when i had some fuel pump issues recently, she wouldnt prime etc.. i dont wana see any tears if anything blows up or something though :)

i grounded the neg wire (blue wire if i recall correctly) on the fuel pump connector in the boot and it seemed to bypass the ecu controlling it and make it work :P It was like doing that mod people do to make it run at full voltage or woteva.

well, i just spoke to the guy that sold me it. He had it in his 200SX with rb25det dropped in, and he says he had his fuel pump hard wired into the ignition, just as above!

however, I'm just wondering if there is an option perhaps to make the PFC disable/enable the fuel pump control as it seems a bit odd still.

its no different to the normal powerfc so just debug as if it were a normal PFC

can you post up what your sensor / sw check looks like?

did you do factory reset?

any of the sensor names in BLACK highlight (in sensor sw check)

do any switches (in sensor sw check) turn on (black dot) if you try and crank it ?

its no different to the normal powerfc so just debug as if it were a normal PFC

can you post up what your sensor / sw check looks like?

did you do factory reset?

any of the sensor names in BLACK highlight (in sensor sw check)

do any switches (in sensor sw check) turn on (black dot) if you try and crank it ?

I will take a pic of the screen when I try it again today. I'm going to a friends to go over my ecu loom to check the power and grounding.

I did do a factory reset, and i then turned off the boost control. I checked the AFM type and it is set to normal.

none of the names were highlighted in black in the sensor sw check.

Right,

the fuel pump sensor changes to a black dot in the sensor screen when you try to start the car, so it must think that it is activating the fuel pump (but it isnt).

today I grounded the fuel pump so it always pumping when the ignition is on, and the car started. So this means that the fuel pump circuit in the PFC is faulty?

I let it idle for 10 mins, then 10 mins with rear window heater on, then 10 mins with A/C on. However now when i start it up, it sometimes hunts for a few seconds, and also the idle is high (1100rpm). If I drop the clutch and let the revs drop while driving they take a while to go below 1100rpm, and if changing up this can sometimes pull the car forward, so isnt ideal. I can get used to it but maybe someone knows a solution?

would anyone know where the resistors etc are for the fuel circuit on the pfc? I opened it up and the PCB looks fine, no burnt tracks or anything.

finally, will i do any harm running the fuel pump like this. It is an R34 GTR fuel pump, and is 2 stage. It is quite loud anyway, but on idle it used to drop to lower pressure and was a little quieter. Now it is is runing high pressure constantly, will this do any harm?

cheers

adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...