Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by PranK

For those interested, I had a wheel alignment and the camber was fine (apparently) but i had about 4mm toe-in which they fixed, so apparently its all good now.. lets just see how quickly i rip through my Pirrellis.

A bad toe alignment will kill your tyres 10 times quicker than high camber. Same thing happened to me, the camber even looked ok but because of front end lowering, the toe was pushed in too far (also about 4mm) and this is what killed my front tyres. My tyres had nearly full tread on the outside edge, but on the inside edge was through the steel belts before I noticed! :eek:

Hard lesson learned - whenever raising or lowering your car (or buying one that you suspect has been raised or lowered), get a wheel alignment done asap!

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

Originally posted by GET53T-GTR33

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

that would be the best cheap solution... if u dont want to purchase a rear camber kit. tyres on standard rims won't got bald as bad, on the inside of the tyres as wider rims/tyres would, (if u car is lowered).. they will but not as bad. the width of the tyres definitely affect the degree in which it would get bald.

I have this exact problem as well, I noticed my rears were down to the belts in about 6 months after purchase.

My 32 is lowered quite a bit on std rims, and it chewed them out really quick.

I was told to get all new suss @ around $2,000 (RIM ME).

So I will just do the swap over tyres from side to side until I want to pay for the real fix, I have been told that to swap over 2 rears from rim to rim is about $10...cheap as!

My tyre guy told me that it was all due to the extensive lowering.

Gilty, I was also told that I would need complete new suspension, cost $2500 minimum. I then asked my mechanic and he recommended someone else who got straight to the point and said he would only need to extend the adjustment points to enable the required reel in. Cost $600.00. Get a second opinion dude!. Anyone with a camber wear problem only needs to get these adjusters extended....that's what the camber kit does. Dont let the dodgy brothers rip you off with work that is not needed.

cheers Ozzy

The whiteline camber kit for the front of my 33 cost me $156ish I think, and about 2hrs of my time. 1.5 hrs for the first one and then half an hour for the next once I knew how to do it. Followed by a wheel alighnment of course. The rear is about the same only easier to fit. Not a big expense when compared to tires, and if you plan to do a bit a track work you can dial in a bit of camber on the Friday and get it corrected on the Monday after. Thats my plan anyway!

hmm , im going with ozzy , on this one , brand new potenzas s03

car lowered , 17 / 235 / 45 front , rear 17 / 255 /40 , so rotation was out of the question, so i phoned all the specialists over here , there is no camber adjustment for r33 gts, apart fron drilling new holes and welding plates on was going 2 cost about £100 , so i take it the specialist , nothing whong with it they say ( -1.5 degrees ) is fine , the rears where, how ever not tracking right, so all squared up now , and tyres seem ok , so far.

little tip tho , if u disconect your battery , 2 do a ecu reset , make sure the steering is pointing dead ahead , ( hicas sensor thing )

my 2 pence worth .

  • 11 months later...

Prank - when you got your toe in adjusted (all this time ago) what did you get it adjusted to? did you need an aftermarket to adjust it? or can it be adjusted with the stock GTR setup?

Anyone know what stock GTR castor and camber can be set to without an aftermarket kit?

Wow, this is an old thread. As far as I am aware there is no adjustment for caster or camber for the front standard. What you have got is what you have got. There is a small amount of adjustment for camber at the rear, though it is not enough. Camber on my car was crazy when I lowered it, definately needed the camber kits for the rear and I got them for the front too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...