Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by PranK

For those interested, I had a wheel alignment and the camber was fine (apparently) but i had about 4mm toe-in which they fixed, so apparently its all good now.. lets just see how quickly i rip through my Pirrellis.

A bad toe alignment will kill your tyres 10 times quicker than high camber. Same thing happened to me, the camber even looked ok but because of front end lowering, the toe was pushed in too far (also about 4mm) and this is what killed my front tyres. My tyres had nearly full tread on the outside edge, but on the inside edge was through the steel belts before I noticed! :eek:

Hard lesson learned - whenever raising or lowering your car (or buying one that you suspect has been raised or lowered), get a wheel alignment done asap!

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

Originally posted by GET53T-GTR33

Well for a cheap and quick solution, when i had this problem, i was told just to swap the tyres around ie: flip em so the bolder parts come to the outside vice versa. Just out of interest do standard rims also bold out the inside of tyres?, as i have 18's?? and do the width of the tyres affect the degree in which it gets bold?

Thanks

that would be the best cheap solution... if u dont want to purchase a rear camber kit. tyres on standard rims won't got bald as bad, on the inside of the tyres as wider rims/tyres would, (if u car is lowered).. they will but not as bad. the width of the tyres definitely affect the degree in which it would get bald.

I have this exact problem as well, I noticed my rears were down to the belts in about 6 months after purchase.

My 32 is lowered quite a bit on std rims, and it chewed them out really quick.

I was told to get all new suss @ around $2,000 (RIM ME).

So I will just do the swap over tyres from side to side until I want to pay for the real fix, I have been told that to swap over 2 rears from rim to rim is about $10...cheap as!

My tyre guy told me that it was all due to the extensive lowering.

Gilty, I was also told that I would need complete new suspension, cost $2500 minimum. I then asked my mechanic and he recommended someone else who got straight to the point and said he would only need to extend the adjustment points to enable the required reel in. Cost $600.00. Get a second opinion dude!. Anyone with a camber wear problem only needs to get these adjusters extended....that's what the camber kit does. Dont let the dodgy brothers rip you off with work that is not needed.

cheers Ozzy

The whiteline camber kit for the front of my 33 cost me $156ish I think, and about 2hrs of my time. 1.5 hrs for the first one and then half an hour for the next once I knew how to do it. Followed by a wheel alighnment of course. The rear is about the same only easier to fit. Not a big expense when compared to tires, and if you plan to do a bit a track work you can dial in a bit of camber on the Friday and get it corrected on the Monday after. Thats my plan anyway!

hmm , im going with ozzy , on this one , brand new potenzas s03

car lowered , 17 / 235 / 45 front , rear 17 / 255 /40 , so rotation was out of the question, so i phoned all the specialists over here , there is no camber adjustment for r33 gts, apart fron drilling new holes and welding plates on was going 2 cost about £100 , so i take it the specialist , nothing whong with it they say ( -1.5 degrees ) is fine , the rears where, how ever not tracking right, so all squared up now , and tyres seem ok , so far.

little tip tho , if u disconect your battery , 2 do a ecu reset , make sure the steering is pointing dead ahead , ( hicas sensor thing )

my 2 pence worth .

  • 11 months later...

Prank - when you got your toe in adjusted (all this time ago) what did you get it adjusted to? did you need an aftermarket to adjust it? or can it be adjusted with the stock GTR setup?

Anyone know what stock GTR castor and camber can be set to without an aftermarket kit?

Wow, this is an old thread. As far as I am aware there is no adjustment for caster or camber for the front standard. What you have got is what you have got. There is a small amount of adjustment for camber at the rear, though it is not enough. Camber on my car was crazy when I lowered it, definately needed the camber kits for the rear and I got them for the front too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...