Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im thinkin about gettin bigger AFM's but dont know which one to go for.....which would you use Nismo or Z32? i was gonna get Nismo because of convenience but a workshop told me to not waste my time an to go for the z32's but then i would have to change the piping that connect to the AFM's.....

Does anyone know how much that will cost or who to recommend in canberra to do the piping?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155092-nismo-afm-or-z32/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Im thinkin about gettin bigger AFM's but dont know which one to go for.....which would you use Nismo or Z32? i was gonna get Nismo because of convenience but a workshop told me to not waste my time an to go for the z32's but then i would have to change the piping that connect to the AFM's.....

Does anyone know how much that will cost or who to recommend in canberra to do the piping?

Cheers guys.

Easy, really.

If you want to run a stock airbox go the Nismo units.

If you are happy with pods (particularly Apexi ones) the Z32 option is probably better. You can get a ready made set up from Nengun. http://www.nengun.com/apexi/super-suction-kit-z32-80mm-afm

You can get the pods to run with the 65mm units, too.

Edited by djr81

yeah im running apexi pods at the moment but i dont think its the same ones in that ad....does that kit include the pipe that goes from the pod to AFM and AFM to turbo?i cant really remember what they look like as i have only had the car on the road for about a 2 weeks in the last 10 months....... >_<

It depends what you want to do with your car. If you only want up to 350kw at the wheels then you can use the green label r33 gtst a/f meters. If you want over 350 then go the z32's as they have more resolution, What this means is it takes more air to max out the 5 volt peak that a/f meters use.

I haven't had much to do with the nismo ones but if they are 65mm then the other two options would be a better choice and i dare say a lot cheaper.

Both a/f meters will fit the standard rubber hoses they are just tight going in. The air pod pipe will need to be changed as the four bolt flange is obviously bigger on the 80mm ones.

Also if you have a power fc then you can change the settings in the computer for both gtst and z32 so that you can drive it to get tuned.If its still the standard ecu then it will need a new tune burned for it

Hope this helps

There are a range of pod filters that fit different sized AFM's. So have a look.

The advantage of the Apexi set that matches the Z32 AFM's is that you can bin the rubber hoses - these when old/tired have been known to suck in & restrict flow to the turbo.

AFAIK there is no difference between the range of the Nismo units & the Z32 units, just the size of the housing.

Irrespective of which unit you choose (Z32 or Nismo) you need to recalibrate the ECU. On a Power FC this is easy, but it is still worth checking the AFR's on the dyno once the job is done.

Make sure you get some plugs to got with the Z32's AFM's. You need to splice these into the wiring of the car. Can anyone confirm if the Nismo unit is a straight plug in, it the same as the stock plug?

nice one, thanks for the advice fellas.......

now i think ill go for the z32's but theres another question i need to ask.......

what are your thoughts on 2nd hand ones? i know im beta off goin new but i can get a pair of 2nd hand ones for $500.....but im affraid with the luck ive had that they will f*k out on me, as usual........

but do z32 AFM's have the tendancy to f*k out?

My thoughts on second hand AFM's extend as far as don't buy them. No further.

You can either get proper, new ones or the Bosch equivalent. If you know anyone who works in the parts trade you can probably get the Bosch ones quite a bit cheaper.

By the way, as far as I understand the RB25 AFM doesn't give much additional top end over the RB26 units - this despite it's larger diameter.

There is another thread somewhere on the net - maybe SAU, SDU, SOf*k or Nicoclub, can't remember - where they talk about counterfeit Z32's. Apparently there are new dodgey copies of Z32's out there and its buyer beware. I'd suggest giving eBay the flick, buy from a reputable business like Nengun, Greenline, Just Jap, Kamikaze or other ones that sell on SAU etc instead. At least they will stand by their product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...