Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i noticed the rubber bits shown in the pic are leaking this jelly type stuff. they are the rubber grommets between the rear subframe and the chassis.

i have a 2way diff, and it shakes the car to bits around corners, and even when the front wheels a slightly turned, would these worn components be the cause?? i know 2ways do clunk but this thing is rediculas, it actually wobbles the whole rear end and is quite embarissing.

any got a price for an upgrade set?

thanks

steve

post-11604-1170774442.jpg

Edited by PHATR32
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've been quoted $200 to fit the Noltec Subframe bushes.

They are a hassle to do but providing the workshop has done them before they can get them done quickly. If they want to. >_<

I've just bought a 12tonne press so I will be doing my own shortly.

I've been quoted $200 to fit the Noltec Subframe bushes.

They are a hassle to do but providing the workshop has done them before they can get them done quickly. If they want to. >_<

I've just bought a 12tonne press so I will be doing my own shortly.

$200 that cheap I never got a quote but thought it would heaps more , good luck i heard it a prick of a job

Those metal spacers go in a different spot too

i heard it a prick of a job

exactly....200 is a steal....don't do it yourself if you can get it done that price....you have to take the whole subframe down to do it - have a look how much you need to detach to get it off

Mine have stopped leaking.

On the dyno under power the left wheel 'almost' touches the front of the guard. :S

Driving it on the road second and sometimes third steers the car. :P

Good thing they are being done soon.

lol. I found after i locked the hicas i'd chuck the car into a corner and the arse end would still passively steer :(

I think the 2 way will be giving the bushes a very hard time. All the loading and unloading (which would effectively be twisting/releasing the subframe), both wheels trying to travel at the same speed on accel and decel will probably twist the subframe on fast cornering aswell, so effective passive rear steering.

so the actually sub frame has to completly removed?? dam....

what are these lock collars sh@un is talking about?

i've been quoted that they would need my car for at least 1 full day... is it THAT big of a job?

i've been quoted that they would need my car for at least 1 full day... is it THAT big of a job?

Yes, they have to remove the whole rear subframe from the car to put it in the press. That means drive shafts, diff, tailshaft, stabilsier bar, shocks, springs, brake callipers, habd brake cable etc etc all have to be removed first.

If someone is quoting $200 then it is either;

1. A new guy who has never done one before and has no idea how long it will take

2. A suck in price, they will find something "wrong" and then charge more

3. Someone who thinks that they can do it in the car with a screw style press, when 99% of time they can't. One or more of the bushes will not budge and they will have to remove the whole subframe. Then refer to #2

:( cheers :)

If someone is quoting $200 then it is either;

1. A new guy who has never done one before and has no idea how long it will take

2. A suck in price, they will find something "wrong" and then charge more

3. Someone who thinks that they can do it in the car with a screw style press, when 99% of time they can't. One or more of the bushes will not budge and they will have to remove the whole subframe. Then refer to #2

:( cheers :)

Gary, The bloke is my tuner. He's done a few of them before and knows they are a big job.

BUT thats the price he's given me. No doubt others would not receive that price. :)

He removes the diff and all the associated bits. Gets an oxy on to the old bushes and wacks them out (apparently much quicker doing it this way than removing the old via a press). He then wacks the subframe in to a press and presses in the new bushes.

He did say its a 1/2 to 3/4 day job.

I got quoted the same price as Cubes for changover of the subframe bushes through our tuner.

He does do slightly better prices because of a thing called customer loyalty, not that he doesnt know whats involved, or a suck in price.

In fact when he sets the price its fixed, no matter what. Unless something goes stupidly wrong he will ring and ask u about it.

********

GTR32GUS - The metal ring ones simply crush the std worn bushes down providing a metal on metal connection between the subframe and the rear of the car. Not the best option for someone with a 2 way diff..

Pinapples can be used to stiffen the subframe up, or change the angle of it .

Edited by Bl4cK32

dam, looks like its gonna be a weekend job then.

about the press, do you really need a big one, are they that tight they cant be hammered in?

back before i registered it i had most of the ass end out it (diff, shafts, attessa pump), etc etc so removing it isnt a problem, the problem is i dont know anyone who has a press, and i wont have much luck finding a shop open on a sat arvo or a sunday.

steve

I bought an Ebay 12tonne press for $150. The bloke was in adelaide so no postage cost, usually postage is around $38.

Its quite a good press and much better than the supercrap presses that break welds.

Grab a 3" piece of exh. pipe and plate to press the R32 bush in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
  • Create New...