Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just to add, im now at 204rwkw and it lose traction coming onto boost in 1st, shift into second real quick and it will "chirp" lol

im pretty sure it just was a bit of lackng power and possibly the combination of new tyres and a car that seems to be in good nick suspension wise and also my boost controller (turbotech) didnt have the hole like the newly designed ones so when i fixed that up boost kicks in instantly on a high rev gear change unlike before it had a second of lag when changing from first to second even if i shifted at redline and 2nd was at over 4000rpm

now to test that clutch again... seems to not be holding out on high rev clutch dumps like on takeoffs at the drags

mine spins 1 2 3 without dumping the clutch. bring it on boost in 1st change semi fast, not snapping it or whatever and second spins all the way through then into 3rd i usually back off coz ur doin bout 100 ks all over the road. hopefully new tyres can sort it out. there bout 40 percent 235-17s. its only a stocker with cat back 3 inch. runs around 10psi

rev 1st to 7,000rpm then while ur foot is to the floor flatshift into 2nd and hold on :) seems to work for me...

on the track i got mad traction on the street im sideways in 3rd if i race from the lights...

now that my engine is about to blow up its kinda slow :D u rekon more boost?

mine does have vlsd, when im practiceing launching or really trying to down a quarter I dont tend to slip as im specifically trying not to but chirping second isnt that hard just change gear @ 6krpm and maintain throttle position reffered to as flat changing ^^

anyone find that thier vlsd tends to open wheel when "cold" a little but when warm locks pretty well ? after a bit of driving for some reason it seems to lock but if you warm the engy then go to warm the tyres start driving and say leaving by going down the drive and the inevitable stradle due to crapy driveway angle and 1 wheel chirps but when you say are coming home it just locks up ?

Reading most of these, I'd have to say something along the lines of the clutch. I only have 153 at the wheels in an RB20 which has less Torque than an RB25 and I'm able to break traction accelerating in 1st, and chirp both in 2nd and onto 3rd. Like some have mentioned, the way you change gears is also a main thing. I have a heavy duty clutch with a short shifter. Tyres on the back are 245 (big for a R32 gts-t)... so someonething seems a little weird. Maybe remap ECU? Also depends... what turbo you have?

Edited by DC_GTST

i agree with cubes, its all about driving style, and tyres... horse power just means wheel spin rather then chirp... i had a set of shity tyres wen i first got my turbo upgrade, and with 260rwkw i was spinning 1st 2nd and thirds quite easily... now with some continentals i cant make it spin much in second, they grip like u wudnt believe!!! as for breaking out into some spin from revving out, that doesnt happen either, no spin without dumping or flat changing gears...

mine does have vlsd, when im practiceing launching or really trying to down a quarter I dont tend to slip as im specifically trying not to but chirping second isnt that hard just change gear @ 6krpm and maintain throttle position reffered to as flat changing ^^

anyone find that thier vlsd tends to open wheel when "cold" a little but when warm locks pretty well ? after a bit of driving for some reason it seems to lock but if you warm the engy then go to warm the tyres start driving and say leaving by going down the drive and the inevitable stradle due to crapy driveway angle and 1 wheel chirps but when you say are coming home it just locks up ?

Yes.. My VLSD was stuffed. When cold it would open wheel the left wheel in a roll on acceleration in second gear. First gear would also spin up the left wheel.

It was spinning the left wheel so much that there was very much noticable greater wear on the left rear tyre.

Once warm second would hook up ok and not spin up through second but first would still just buzz the left wheel up.

This only started occuring since the rb30det was dropped in. With the rb20det the diff was fine, it would only open wheel when turning left on a wet road. I'm assuming the worn vlsd hub simply couldn't handle the increased torque that comes on quite hard.

Talking about tyres, I have 4 different ones, all down to about 0% on the inside and outside and about 20% in the middle.

I've only got 150rwkw and it spins up first with 235s, hell it spun first when it only had 130. Tyres are what its all about, can't wait to get new rims and tyres, should be a new car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...