Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i did a search and didnt find anything, i never seen to find anything :mellow: but everyone else does so help me if need be

anyways iv heard bout some rb25det running off re-mapped rb20 ecu's..

im assuming it wouldnt be a direct swap of course and some changes would need to be made, but what changes exactly? anyone here done it? how hard?

i know i should just source a PFC or something similar and i wont get as good of result maybe, but want to not take the sh*t option but something less costly or different..

wish i went the rb20 for my ceffy due to easy tuning :)

i know there is alot of people who are knowledgeable so please dont flame me ahaha

im just stuck with what i want to do with my car and some opinions about this would be great

thanks

iv just read a few threads and it says you can re-map r33 ecu but cost more, but no one mention's how much more..

where around the brisbane area could i go with either r32 or 300zx ecu and say make it work???

Edited by 2gceffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155917-rb20-ecu-for-rb25/
Share on other sites

which ever option you choose, you need VCT support if retaining the factory NVCS system. otherwise it runs like a pig with vct off in the factory cams & setup. ive seen a quote of about $1000 to remap an r33 ecu

z32 and r32 should work, but agian youll need to get vct somehow

My r32 has a rb25det in it. But I think it was an rb25de, turboed. (conversion was done in japan) It is running on a stock r32 ecu fine (chipped).

If you need any info or pics, happy to help as much as I can.

hey mate can i get all the info you have on it !!

(manwhore) where bouts are you getting your re-map done? if i could get a re-map for $350 id prob go buy new turbo and injectors right now ahaha

(paulr33) so id have to find an ecu that runs the vct? do any other nissans run it?

non turbo rb25 ecu run the same format or ecu as turbo?

thanks heaps guys this info is great

Edited by 2gceffy

Yeah you can run an r33 rb25 with an r32 rb20 ecu with rb25 maps programmed in but you do lose vct.

Using a z32 ecu maintains the vct control but needs some re-wiring to run the engine. Mainly rewiring the injector and coil outputs to suit the different firing order.

R33 ecu's are a pain to remap as the memory is stored inside the main processor. These chips can be replaced but they are much more expensive than the common eproms used in r32 ecu's etc. The chips are also one write only so if the tune is not spot on the first time you have to throw away the chip and start again. There are daughterboards available from japan to make the programming slightly easier but they are also expensive.

The beauty of remapping most nissan ecu's is that they are relatively easy and cheap to modify. Unfortunately with the r33 there is a lot of extra messing around and time involved which makes it not such good value.

who would i take it too (z32) ecu to get those modifications done? any knowledgable tuner be able to perform this?

id get onto dr drift if he was in my state, planning money and time on him bein up here for a day or too will be difficult..

iv been looking into devices to control vct, would VTEC controller work?

if not could anyone reccomend something that will do the job

thanks

Edited by 2gceffy

Anyone with a soldering iron, a copy of both the R33 and Z32 ecu pinouts and some common sense should be able to do the wiring. Sam (Dr Drift) or myself could provide you with an eprom to get it running. Not sure who in brisbane could dyno tune the stock ecu in realtime.

Well there are external VCT controllers available. I think HKS makes one. Not sure about the vtec thing.

Not sure who in brisbane could dyno tune the stock ecu in realtime.

The team at Mercury Motorsport can... they purchased Dr Drift's software and he trained them how to use it :laugh:

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/produc...nedit/index.htm

i've had my car tuned there with their "nissan edit" and it drives nicely

Ive got a R32 with an rb25 in it that is running a 20 ecu. When i first got the car it was running a S1 r33 engine with hks cams therefore the vct was removed, ive just done a swap for a neo6 running the vct and the guy that wired it in has got the vct to run using the chipped ecu. Dave from Charlies at wooloongabba (brisbane) wired that bit in and got an extra 15 rwkw once the vct was wired in and working.

its just the neo block, we basically just swapped everything onto the block that was on the rb25, and the vct was wired into the fuse box into the ignition. works a treat.

*disclaimer* i dont know alot about this sorta tehnical stuff but this is basically how my mate has explained they got it to work :ninja:

Edited by bretto

I sent TSL a pm last night about getting this done, but have been researching while waiting for a reply.

From what I can gather on the pinouts I've found so far you'd just need to swap cylinders 5 -2 & 6-4 on both the spark and injection. Is that right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...