Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hondas piss me off, i have in the past had trouble beating some of these buggers and yet they can pay 5k for a VTEC and i pay 15k for my R34 and they are nearly if not gruntier, i know they have the power to weight factor on there side but still come on......... what do you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/
Share on other sites

what type of honda are we talking about buddy

my brother drives a civis vtir and its slow as

my sister drives an accord vtir and its slow as

my aunty drives a integra type r and its ok

but u should be beating them in your 34 (im assuming its turbo) sorry just saw u r not turbo even still u should be beating civic and accord vtecs

now an s2000 thats a quick piece of machinery with like 175kw so i could understand them beating u anything alse but and i think it comes down to driver skill

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904509
Share on other sites

^^hairdresser2000? no thanks.

ur gettn beaten by honda vtecs cause ur in heavier slower car. simple.

hi i didnt say i was getting beaten everytime, my skill is quite sufficent as my first car when i was 15 was a 351 xr falcon 67 and i have driven many a old school and quite a few modern japs, the point is that for the money you pay and the rep of the skyline i would assume that some 94 integras that are worth a smidging of the price are just as quick, maybe the Vtec is more supperior then the VCT the skylines have?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904714
Share on other sites

^^hairdresser2000? no thanks.

ur gettn beaten by honda vtecs cause ur in heavier slower car. simple.

Yea you could say its heavier and slower... my mate had a 180sx with just the simple mods.. boost fmic and that but he was beaten by an integra type R... my suggestion to my friend being beaten is that he's a shit driver cos the 180 is just as light as the type R and he's got turbo...

Maybe STLKHR's R34 is auto and bone stock???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904726
Share on other sites

Yea you could say its heavier and slower... my mate had a 180sx with just the simple mods.. boost fmic and that but he was beaten by an integra type R... my suggestion to my friend being beaten is that he's a shit driver cos the 180 is just as light as the type R and he's got turbo...

Maybe STLKHR's R34 is auto and bone stock???

haha well yes it is a tiptronic but hey i get as quick or quicker gear changers then some, also it is realivty stock at the mo, but still out of the factory for both cars it would seem the Honda is still quicker. my one is a non turbo but i still got alot of torque !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904738
Share on other sites

a dc2r will run to 100 in 6.2 sec.......and in now way is that slow.

uve got a non turbo auto skyline. 'skyline rep' as u put it, is based on the turbo manuals, espeically th GTR's.

yes i agree but im stating that how can nissan charge a hell of a lot more money then honda for there cars, and yes i know one reason is that nissan is BETTER haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904777
Share on other sites

Back when i had my 180 (sr20det, cat back exhaust, airfilter, 8psi) i had a dc2r with an exhaust keep up with me

The type r are pretty quick, they had no trouble beating stock 200sx/skylines etc

Once we do a few mods and wind up the boost they cant keep up but for what they are out of the box its fantastic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156307-honda-vtec/#findComment-2904869
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...