Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a GTR with hks 2530's & Tomei cams(unsure of specs) & bleed valve.

Doesnt come on full boost until about 6KRPM which isnt too bad pritty useable but had a look what other pple get with the same turbo's & seems 5KRPM is where they are hitting full boost?

Now i know the bleed valve is going to make it laggier but by how much? surely not 5-1000RPM?

Have checked all my vac lines etc there are lots of extra crap i need to cut-out but there are no leaks, is there anything else i should check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156452-laggy-gtr/
Share on other sites

Like you say a bleed valve doesn't help, but it shouldn't make that much difference.

First suspect is the extra crap on the vacuum lines. Plug it/pinch it off and or remove it - then have another check.

Other things are:

Your ignition timing.

Your fuelling.

That the waste gates are closing properly.

Cam timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156452-laggy-gtr/#findComment-2907499
Share on other sites

turbos got adjustable actuators on them too?

probably not done up tight enough

I had the same problem with my 2530 on my rb20

wind in the bleed valve and adjust boost via the actuators you should need vice grips and two hands to put

the rod back on to the flap section

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156452-laggy-gtr/#findComment-2910395
Share on other sites

Engine is fine, just been built & makes good power.

Cheers for that ill check a few things out, allready buggered around with two ebc's so will be leaving the bleed'r in there for another month or so until i buy a brand newy...its not really that bad just everyone talking about their responsive 2530's & im missing out! :sorcerer: . Good point on the actulators ill suss them out :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156452-laggy-gtr/#findComment-2910908
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...