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  • 2 months later...

Hey Gus, here is some quick info for ya.

Rule Of Odds

The rule of odds states that by displaying an odd number of objects, there is always one in the middle that is "framed" by the surrounding objects. This adds comfort to the artwork and is used in advertising quite often.

Simplification

Images with clutter can distract from the main elements within the picture and make it difficult to identify the subject. By decreasing the extraneous content, the viewer is more likely to focus on the primary objects. Clutter can also be reduced through the use of lighting, as the brighter areas of the image tend to draw the eye, as do lines, squares and colour. In painting, the artist may use less detailed and defined brushwork towards the edges of the picture.

Lighting Focus

In photography, one approach to achieving simplification is to use a wide aperture when shooting to limit the depth of field. When used properly in the right setting, this technique can place everything that is not the subject of the photograph out of focus.

800px-Jonquil_flowers_at_f5.jpg

A similar approach, given the right equipment, is to take advantage of the Scheimpflug principle to change the plane of focus.

Scheimpflug:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

Geometry and symmetry

The "rule of odds" suggests that an odd number of subjects in an image is more interesting than an even number. Thus if you have more than one subject in your picture, the suggestion is to choose an arrangement with at least three subjects. An even number of subjects produces symmetries in the image, which can appear less natural for a naturalistic, informal composition.

Related to the rule of odds is the observation that triangles are an aesthetically pleasing implied shape within an image. In a canonically attractive face, the mouth and eyes fall within the corners of the area of an equilateral triangle.

Other Techniques

* There should be a centre of interest or focus in the work, to prevent it becoming a pattern in itself;

* The direction followed by the viewer's eye should lead the viewer's gaze around all elements in the work before leading out of the picture;

* The subject should not be facing out of the image;

* A moving subject should have space in front;

* Exact bisections of the picture space should be avoided;

* Small, high contrast, elements have as much impact as larger, duller elements;

* The prominent subject should be off-centre, unless a symmetrical or formal composition is desired, and can be balanced by smaller satellite elements

* the horizon line should not divide the art work in two equal parts but be positioned to emphasize either the sky or ground; showing more sky if painting is of clouds, sun rise/set, and more ground if a landscape

  • 1 month later...
sid, i like the fact you get planes in your shots!!!

and that one from Xmetal..Very nice indeed...one of my flickr mates does these and he's our local king..30mins-1hr is not uncommon for these!!!

OK, for those of you wanting do try these night shots here are a few pointers..

1: use full batteries, nothing worse than sitting waiting for the shot and 2mins later you hear the lens shut!!!

2: Use Bulb...get a cord from e-blah or even a local camera store..there cheap.

3: get a tripod!! doesn't have to be $$$ (i use an Optex..cheap)

4: use some foreground object..if you can...

5: if you do find some foreground object..take a spotlight if your not close...damn hard to focus when its dark as!!!

6: some people do a test shot using high ISO and calculate the time of low iso shots..(i just shoot).

7: Gels, these are theatrical cellophane that you put over your flash head or torch (they dont wrinkle much) to then colour the object to highlight a usually boring bdlg.

try a PA/dj hire place, anyone who rents lights etc..(i got mine from a lamp replacement shop). and just play!!!

you probably already know these things, but some may not...meh..

recent gel shot...

2903818055_2208b518e2.jpg

edit: sid..i use a standard kit lens 18-50..if you play with you White Balance settings any fluros or street lights willcolour the obect in different light...play a bit!

this is what you get when setting for Tungsten when its actually the top flash instead...(the blue is the colour change instead if white)

2657710089_561b81757b.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

quick question, help would be appreciated :(

Taking some night shots the other night, lol, and they all turned out pretty grainy, if i turn ISO down this will help correct ? but to counter that i will need to slow down the shutter speed aswell right ?

also finding it hard to get nice focus, how can i help this at night ?

is poor ISO (graininess) more affected by shitty kit lens or the body and image processor itself ?

edit: also will a polarizing filter help reduce headlight glare/reflection in pictures ?

  • 3 weeks later...

If blowing highlights is unavoidable, say there is a lot of glare from lots of cloud, meter of the ground, then point and shoot. Id rather have a blown sky than a pitch black point of interest.

Try out HDR, you shoot 3 frames at different exposures (normal, under and over exposed), then combine them in post. Really nice results for stationary objects or land/city scapes. Some photogs use more than 3 frames or try to fake HDR by adjusting one images exposer in post. Just use 3 frames = best result

Here's some info on HDR:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials...namic-range.htm

Check out Photomatrix - they have a free trial on there:

http://www.hdrsoft.com/index.html

Cheers

turn the iso down, image will get darker. either increase apeture (smaller number) or reduce shutter speed to compensate. lower apeture means less depth of feild and your pic may be slightly soft

you mean higher?

eg:

Turn the ISO down, image will get darker. Then either increase aperture (smaller number) or reduce shutter speed to compensate.

Higher aperture (smaller number) means less depth of field and your picture may be slightly softer

  • 8 months later...

Thought these links might be useful for those still in the process of learning what cameras and lenses to buy, the differences in significance of choosing the right ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speeds for your photos, and how to get the most out of your equipment. They're from the Canon tutorials, but the lessons learnt can be applied to all cameras - even point-and-shoots, if they have any manually-adjustable controls on them.

Getting started: http://www1.canon.com.au/worldofeos/learn/getting-started/

Getting creative: http://www1.canon.com.au/worldofeos/learn/get-creative/

  • 4 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Since this is a car forum, can we get some examples and suggestions as to the best angles and ways to take photo's of vehicles. What ways are best to make cars look flasher and more flattering. What angles work best to avoid showing the bad points of a car.

Perhaps some examples and suggestions, and ways to frame a car to make the best use of backgrounds, or how to get good shots of your car when you are just shooting it from your own backyard or out in the street where the background is rather horrible?

Since this is a car forum, can we get some examples and suggestions as to the best angles and ways to take photo's of vehicles. What angles work best to avoid showing the bad points of a car.

Try not to shoot R33's from behind because they have big behinds :(

Haha fair enough.

I do a moderate amount of photography, used to do more, and have some ideas for good shots of cars, but could always do more and better. And keen to hear advice and ideas for shooting cars, and that would prob add greatly to this thread.

BTW Zennon, how do u put a pic in ur signature?

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. 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    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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