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  • 2 months later...

Hey Gus, here is some quick info for ya.

Rule Of Odds

The rule of odds states that by displaying an odd number of objects, there is always one in the middle that is "framed" by the surrounding objects. This adds comfort to the artwork and is used in advertising quite often.

Simplification

Images with clutter can distract from the main elements within the picture and make it difficult to identify the subject. By decreasing the extraneous content, the viewer is more likely to focus on the primary objects. Clutter can also be reduced through the use of lighting, as the brighter areas of the image tend to draw the eye, as do lines, squares and colour. In painting, the artist may use less detailed and defined brushwork towards the edges of the picture.

Lighting Focus

In photography, one approach to achieving simplification is to use a wide aperture when shooting to limit the depth of field. When used properly in the right setting, this technique can place everything that is not the subject of the photograph out of focus.

800px-Jonquil_flowers_at_f5.jpg

A similar approach, given the right equipment, is to take advantage of the Scheimpflug principle to change the plane of focus.

Scheimpflug:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheimpflug_principle

Geometry and symmetry

The "rule of odds" suggests that an odd number of subjects in an image is more interesting than an even number. Thus if you have more than one subject in your picture, the suggestion is to choose an arrangement with at least three subjects. An even number of subjects produces symmetries in the image, which can appear less natural for a naturalistic, informal composition.

Related to the rule of odds is the observation that triangles are an aesthetically pleasing implied shape within an image. In a canonically attractive face, the mouth and eyes fall within the corners of the area of an equilateral triangle.

Other Techniques

* There should be a centre of interest or focus in the work, to prevent it becoming a pattern in itself;

* The direction followed by the viewer's eye should lead the viewer's gaze around all elements in the work before leading out of the picture;

* The subject should not be facing out of the image;

* A moving subject should have space in front;

* Exact bisections of the picture space should be avoided;

* Small, high contrast, elements have as much impact as larger, duller elements;

* The prominent subject should be off-centre, unless a symmetrical or formal composition is desired, and can be balanced by smaller satellite elements

* the horizon line should not divide the art work in two equal parts but be positioned to emphasize either the sky or ground; showing more sky if painting is of clouds, sun rise/set, and more ground if a landscape

  • 1 month later...
sid, i like the fact you get planes in your shots!!!

and that one from Xmetal..Very nice indeed...one of my flickr mates does these and he's our local king..30mins-1hr is not uncommon for these!!!

OK, for those of you wanting do try these night shots here are a few pointers..

1: use full batteries, nothing worse than sitting waiting for the shot and 2mins later you hear the lens shut!!!

2: Use Bulb...get a cord from e-blah or even a local camera store..there cheap.

3: get a tripod!! doesn't have to be $$$ (i use an Optex..cheap)

4: use some foreground object..if you can...

5: if you do find some foreground object..take a spotlight if your not close...damn hard to focus when its dark as!!!

6: some people do a test shot using high ISO and calculate the time of low iso shots..(i just shoot).

7: Gels, these are theatrical cellophane that you put over your flash head or torch (they dont wrinkle much) to then colour the object to highlight a usually boring bdlg.

try a PA/dj hire place, anyone who rents lights etc..(i got mine from a lamp replacement shop). and just play!!!

you probably already know these things, but some may not...meh..

recent gel shot...

2903818055_2208b518e2.jpg

edit: sid..i use a standard kit lens 18-50..if you play with you White Balance settings any fluros or street lights willcolour the obect in different light...play a bit!

this is what you get when setting for Tungsten when its actually the top flash instead...(the blue is the colour change instead if white)

2657710089_561b81757b.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

quick question, help would be appreciated :(

Taking some night shots the other night, lol, and they all turned out pretty grainy, if i turn ISO down this will help correct ? but to counter that i will need to slow down the shutter speed aswell right ?

also finding it hard to get nice focus, how can i help this at night ?

is poor ISO (graininess) more affected by shitty kit lens or the body and image processor itself ?

edit: also will a polarizing filter help reduce headlight glare/reflection in pictures ?

  • 3 weeks later...

If blowing highlights is unavoidable, say there is a lot of glare from lots of cloud, meter of the ground, then point and shoot. Id rather have a blown sky than a pitch black point of interest.

Try out HDR, you shoot 3 frames at different exposures (normal, under and over exposed), then combine them in post. Really nice results for stationary objects or land/city scapes. Some photogs use more than 3 frames or try to fake HDR by adjusting one images exposer in post. Just use 3 frames = best result

Here's some info on HDR:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials...namic-range.htm

Check out Photomatrix - they have a free trial on there:

http://www.hdrsoft.com/index.html

Cheers

turn the iso down, image will get darker. either increase apeture (smaller number) or reduce shutter speed to compensate. lower apeture means less depth of feild and your pic may be slightly soft

you mean higher?

eg:

Turn the ISO down, image will get darker. Then either increase aperture (smaller number) or reduce shutter speed to compensate.

Higher aperture (smaller number) means less depth of field and your picture may be slightly softer

  • 8 months later...

Thought these links might be useful for those still in the process of learning what cameras and lenses to buy, the differences in significance of choosing the right ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speeds for your photos, and how to get the most out of your equipment. They're from the Canon tutorials, but the lessons learnt can be applied to all cameras - even point-and-shoots, if they have any manually-adjustable controls on them.

Getting started: http://www1.canon.com.au/worldofeos/learn/getting-started/

Getting creative: http://www1.canon.com.au/worldofeos/learn/get-creative/

  • 4 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Since this is a car forum, can we get some examples and suggestions as to the best angles and ways to take photo's of vehicles. What ways are best to make cars look flasher and more flattering. What angles work best to avoid showing the bad points of a car.

Perhaps some examples and suggestions, and ways to frame a car to make the best use of backgrounds, or how to get good shots of your car when you are just shooting it from your own backyard or out in the street where the background is rather horrible?

Since this is a car forum, can we get some examples and suggestions as to the best angles and ways to take photo's of vehicles. What angles work best to avoid showing the bad points of a car.

Try not to shoot R33's from behind because they have big behinds :(

Haha fair enough.

I do a moderate amount of photography, used to do more, and have some ideas for good shots of cars, but could always do more and better. And keen to hear advice and ideas for shooting cars, and that would prob add greatly to this thread.

BTW Zennon, how do u put a pic in ur signature?

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