Jump to content
SAU Community

HKS or Blitz?  

21 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, another comm cheque, another mod :)

Did a search but not having much luck.

I'm going to buy a cat back system in the next few days & I can't decide which to buy :) !

I've been trawling through the Nengun site & have rounded it down to the HKS Silent Hi-power & the Blitz Nur Spec R. They are both in the price range I am happy to spend on a cat-back ($800-$850 delivered nengun prices)

I'm looking for people's opinions & personal experiences with either of these systems as far as Exhaust noise (nothing too droney) & overall quality of the system. I'm after real opinions, not just what the manufacturers say on the website :)

Cheers in advance everyone,

:huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/
Share on other sites

get a big 3.5inch pipe, weld a flange on the end of it it straight onto the cat's flange, then wack a coahanger around it to hold it up near the diff, and run the pipe out the back :huh:

but if ur soft, go the HKS maybe, i dunno, i got nfi about these fancy muffled exhuast systems :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2909464
Share on other sites

CUSTOM. approx 400 for a 3 inch mild steel mandrel bent catback. You choose ur mufflers\look etc. For me this was the best choice, I got to make a high flowing system which was as quiet as possible. At idle it only sounds a tiny tiny bit louder then it did with the 13 y/o standard exhaust system.. Still has a quiet sporty note on boost\when driving etc.

then just your front\dump pipe and high\megaflow cat..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2910688
Share on other sites

I came to a similar crossroad when choosing an exhaust. Btw. there r plenty of exhaust threads when u do a search, i know i came up with more than i can poke a stick at bout 9mths ago.

Couple of things, the prices from Nengun, be sure that they include taxes coz i dont think they do. From memory Blitz NUR was round AU$990 + delivery. Secondly i would have to say the decision in the end is pretty much just about the sound/note, an exhaust is an exhaust, they r just pipes. Diffecrence is minimal, probly only in the mufflers, welding n finish.

If i had to buy one new i'd get an X-Force, great value for $, looks n sounds ok, plenty of ppl on here use em n $ u save there can go towards other mods that im sure ull want to make :)

But if ur not fussed on used gear u can pick up used exhaust here for a good price, i was gonna go with X-Force for my 34 until i saw a used Blitz for less so i got that instead, sent across the country no probs. Great flow, bit drony at certain revs. But out of the 2 u mentioned, i would say that the Blitz would hav a better flow but noisier, HKS would be less drony(bigger mufflers) but not as good a flow.

Ur choice...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2911062
Share on other sites

dont be weak go the nur spec i have it, its loud! dont get the hks if u want somethiing quiet get pe2 trust, nengun arnt always the cheapest i got my nur spec for 900 in aus from auto barn... and about a month ago the had the another in there even cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2913077
Share on other sites

I would hardly call the HKS Silent High Power quiet.I only have the silent power and a decat pipe and its already pretty loud, it was very quiet when the rest of the exahsut was standard tho, i think i sounded better to, just rember that the r33 silent power uses a bullet shapped center muffler (its tiny as you can see on my pics) and the r34 silent power uses a box shapped center muffler which makes it alot quieter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2913107
Share on other sites

Cheers Everyone, Very much appreciated! :happy:

lol @ Nisskid, Nothing wrong with being a softie :D

I had a custom exhaust made up for my R33 when I had it, awesome sound but so F'ckin' droney & annoying on the Freeway at around 100-110+kms.

Looks like I'm steering towards the HKS for the cat-back. Want to keep things low-key :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156555-exhaust-system/#findComment-2913134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...