Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay.

Well I have been talking with Steve and am getting ready to go ahead and purchase this kit.

Just checking to see if there are any updates from current users? Are they still running as strong as you would like? Still recommend them to people for track use?

-Sayajin

Okay.

Well I have been talking with Steve and am getting ready to go ahead and purchase this kit.

Just checking to see if there are any updates from current users? Are they still running as strong as you would like? Still recommend them to people for track use?

-Sayajin

This might be of a interest to you if you havn't already read this post / review.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167104

Padey,

yes the standard G4 pads are 54mm radial depth, the pads i was running were AP ferodo DS 3000 compound which i got cheap :-) from a bloke selling left overs from the BTCC and they were only 46mm radial depth. Just thought i would try a known compound against the G4 track pad without spend 500$ for 54mm DS 3000 pads to suit the G4 caliper.

Bit quick with the get what you pay for

Edited by tacker

Ok pic with the 54mm radial depth pads on, G4 track pads. Sorry pic is not to clear have problem taking camera out from AC to 40 odd degrees and to cranky to wait :-)

post-28646-1181485771_thumb.jpg

Edited by tacker
  • 2 months later...

Very short clip of car last friday night under light in Dubai.

Shows the car just entering a coner from the main straight, so braking from 240kph to about 90kph so some very hot rotors.

Been 9 months now and still going ok

  • 3 months later...

I used a single set of race pads through targa tasmania, a race meet and 2 track days, and they have about 2/3 material left. no issues with the calipers discs or rotors.

I've now put them on my road car (stagea) with street pads and they are still excellent.

I understand people's concern when they are so cheap compared to some other brands - but they are simply good and cheap :banana:

FWIW, JustJap are now selling these for $2000 (330mm kit).

What should i ask for when buying pads for these? Do I just say I need pads for an AP caliper or do i need to be more specific than that?

just buy the pads from just jap, cheaper really than the AP stuff and they work well both street and track options they stock both and the kit shoul come with a set of pads

Which ones are you running on the track? There appears to be Street, Sport and Race options, and i have the Street pads. Since pads are easy to change i was going to try a set of QFM A1RMs from track then swap them back to the kit pads for street use.

I use just the track option which i assume is the race option you refer too. My car is a track hack only so no road experience, although i would dare say they would be ok on the road not to much noise but not good on brake dust. They will stop you from cold without to much worry. There was some issues in using other pads be careful that the pad doesnt sit higher than the outside of the rotor as they did crack some rotors on targa using none G4 pads for some reason.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...