Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, on my way home today from work i had a pretty bad accident =( and would like you know your oppinions:

1. I have comprehensive insurance with Just Car

2. I fitted and FMIC yesterday and was going to notify them tomorrow.

Q. Will this be an issue in my claim?

Please help me out guys!

Cheers

P.S Any one recommend a Smash Reapirer that will help me out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156903-just-car-insurance-policy-with-fmic/
Share on other sites

So just to clarify - you're not expecting the insurance company to pay for the replacement of the FMIC do you?

You are just asking whether or not they might deny the claim because there was a modification that they werent notified about?

And what area do you live in - it might be best to get a recommendation of a repairer in your area for obvious reasons.

BTW - sucks hard to hear about this kind of stuff. I wish you all the best in getting it back on the road!

I was speaking with Justcar about my policy the other day, from my understanding, they just wont cover the fmic as its an additional modification.

Very sorry to hear about your accident mate. I had an accident on the hume highway just before the ingleburn exist on friday. f**king gigantic mutilated truck tyre came out from under some cars ahead of me that had slammed on their breaks and i had nowhere to go but hit it. f**ked up my front bar and lip so need some work done. I feel terrible, so can only imagine how distraught you must be. :/

From what i hear campbelltown smash repairs are the best locally. I hope to get my kit damage fixed at a place in ingleburn recommended to me by powerplay... see how that goes tomorrow when i talk to them.

Edited by Xizor

i cant guarantee cheap prices but work quality is 100%

Belmore body works in greenacre

Ask for Tony n tell him daniel with the skyline sent u

Edited by r32woohoo

If you've modified/removed the front bar reo andhad a front on smash, it is quite possibly a reason to void your insurance.

I don't know why people keep doing this.

Do you know that the reo is the thing that ties the two chassis rails together? the idea is that when you hit, the chassis rails take the impact and move backwards.

If you remove/weaken the reo, if you hit in the middle, nothing takes the impact.

few weeks ago a friend of mine hit a traffic light pole. You'd think that these poles are really weak, but let me tell you,it wasn't pretty. STraight on into the pole, the pole snapped his engine mounts and pushed the engine back into the fire wall.

His insurance was voided. He had to pay for his car AND the pole and traffic light!

Ring them asap and tell them, be honest and up front and I cant imagine they will give you any grief, however I doubt they will cover the cost of the FMIC kit.

This is your best advice!

My guess is they will cover the repairs, but not the replacement of the intercooler.

Im not worried about the FMIC, as long as my car is repaired or written off...

The reo bar was slightly trimmed (cant tell from the accident though)and theres a hole where the piping passes will that be a problem?Perhaps i can tell the repairer to put the stock smic on before the assessors come out?

:/

Perhaps i can tell the repairer to put the stock smic on before the assessors come out?

Yes you better do that asap cos the assessors can be absolute pricks, just cars threatened (warned) me when i got insurance, the bitch said "If you have an accident and you don't tell us about a mod we wont cover you" n i said "what even if i don't tell you i have an aftermarket head unit?"

The bitch replied "YES"

Call them n ask em but dun tell em what happened, just act as tho your enquiring about insurance and what happens if senarios...

When i told JustCars the other day that i had a fmic, thats all they wanted to know. They didnt care about how it was installed or anything. Infact, on my new policy they have sent that starts next month if i agree, it just says "intercooler"... thats how generalised they are.

And when i had a whinge about my agreed value not going up despite mods (f**king redbook agreed value and their internal policy of not going more than 3k over that if its not newly purchased) she said the point was if something happened to the car and those specific parts or damaged or stolen, they need to know to cover. Which makes sense. She didnt say anything about it voiding the entire car policy. Although i know thats the case with other insurers so i guess its quite possible its in the Justcar T&C's aswell.

Edited by Xizor

I'm getting the car towed to Shalala Smash repairs in the morning and hopefully we can sort things out :D

I cant believe this has happened guys....

I urge you ALL to take care, drive carefully and not for one second lose concentration when on the road... cause all it takes is a split second..

Regards,

Sarkis

i was told you can chop the reo bar as much as you want because its not "part of the car".. this was by a smash repairer / bodykit builder..

Obviously this "smash repairer / bodykit builder" you speak of enjoys a good toke on the crack pipe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...