Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys, dam this hot weather, So dam hot it's not funny.

Anyway i have not been able to get higher then 12 psi on my stock turbo. Is this a heat issue? I have a FMIC, but 35 deg plus is ttoooo hot.

I readjusted the boost controller, but no good, can't get higher.

Is this a common problem. I have had no issues when cold, but today is the first hot day and hence my question.

[Hay guys, dam this hot weather, So dam hot it's not funny.

Anyway i have not been able to get higher then 12 psi on my stock turbo. Is this a heat issue? I have a FMIC, but 35 deg plus is ttoooo hot.

I readjusted the boost controller, but no good, can't get higher.

Is this a common problem. I have had no issues when cold, but today is the first hot day and hence my question.

reply

hey mate ive noticed in hot weather my car's turbo doesnt as well, but i think its because my pod filter is closed up, so i think the added heat makes it a problem, if u hav a pod try n get a heat shield that should fix the problem

Hey

I'm sure that you know that the car won't run very well in the heat (you do live in the heat after all, lol). Mine runs liek crap.

But in answer to your question, nah, the heat won't stop you running high boost.

It's most likely the boost controller you're using.

Just to give you an example. If you disconnected the vacuum line from the waste gate actuator - so just leave it out in the air, and floored it, it'd probably hit 50 psi or something (don't try it or you'll blow the turbo and maybe your engine.

the stock turbo runs outta puff after 12psi anyways, i dont know why you'd wanna try put it up boost on a bloody hot day aswell...i can see alot of people shaking their heads right about now. you said your well aware of pinging etc and you say its fine, but most of the time you cant hear it pinging.

she wasn't pining, well not till this morning, i added soem timming. Backed off REAL Quick.

This morning much cooler temps, but turbo still seams funny. I checked it and there is no shaft play, well no more then the specs say, all good there.

Going to check engine compresion to make sure.

I am using a gozzmo IBC. I am also going to put my 10 psi actuator back in, that seamed to work better.

I tell you what, these turbo cars make me VERY paranoid. Knock, ping, bang and so forht.

hence why you leave things on the safe side especially in summer. Lowers the chances of it going Knock, ping, bang and so forth.

If you wanna go nuts with boost and timing in summer chuck a water/meth injection kit on it.

Thanks mate, i am in the process of making up some FMIC cooler water kits, and possibly injection kits aswell. For now i just need to back of a bit. LOL

Also, how much differance does a heatrange change in a sparkplug make. I have BKR6EYA, but thinking of swapping to BKR7EYA.

The reason i want to do this, is that i have a Central 20 ecu, and has been tuned with safc to get correct air fuel ration and some timming knocked out, but i still get some ping, well i think anyway. So possibly going to a 7 hetrange plug could help a bit?

Edited by WogsRus

Nothign wrong with it, simply put the stock one back in to get the EBC tuned to that, problem is that my wastgate still is stock and couses creep. The 10 psi gate is much better, so i will be switching to it.

It works much better with the 10 psi gate, it is just for tunning purpouses for the EBC.

Main problem since the weeknd, lack of boost over 10-12 psi, well not lack of but harder to get to that level of boost.

So i'm gona do some more research

yeh a colder range plug will drop knock a little bit...but not alot. From memory from what cubes informed me ages ago it was equivalent to 1 degree of timing pulled out i think or something along those lines.

tune your ebc for cold AND hot. Does it have two settings? If so retune for both weather conditions as stuff like gain etc etc will be different for different temps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...