Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have been looking at getting a HR31 GTS X, and have recently found one that I like..

They are reasonably old, this one in particular is a 1986 model.

I was just wondering what peoples perspectives are on the HR31.

Are they too old?

Are parts hard to find in terms of suspension, exhausts, interior bits?

Is it worth just spending that little extra and just getting a R32 GTS-T?

Any feedback would be great, thanks!

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157289-hr31-gts-x/
Share on other sites

Do you want a CLASSIC or just another Skyline is what you should be asking yourself?

If Classic is the answer you have no choice except for which HR31 you get, but if it's just another Skyline, well the skies the limit in R32's. It has been said that an RB25DET in an R32 is the ultimate Skyline.

How old is old?? My KHR30 is over 20 years old and still without cancer, so age shall not weary a good one.

And red tops suk, they have a problem over 5000 but some of the R31 people can elaborate more on that.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157289-hr31-gts-x/#findComment-2920915
Share on other sites

have you ever driven one???

i have driven R30, R31, (including the HR31) and R32....

the R32 was so easy and loved the corners,

the R30 was similar, just not as much power, but very well balanced, absolute shitloads of potential

and the R31.... mate these things are a boat... it was like driving a massive falcon or something... now even with a turbo R31 they are good in a straight line, but are actually difficult to corner predictably/in total control.

just find one and drive it, if its what your after great! but i know what i would get if i had the cash....R32 with RB25det fo shizzle

i ended up with a kik arse RM30 as it was $400 and i couldnt pass it up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157289-hr31-gts-x/#findComment-2921350
Share on other sites

personalyl if i were to go from the start again .. sadly i woudlnt get a HR31 coupe like i did 4 years ago....... but wit hthat said.. with some TLC .. and some money thrown here and there..... HR31s are quiet a good car.

HICAS disabled and some better suspension.... its worlds apart from stock.

hence ive still got mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157289-hr31-gts-x/#findComment-2925543
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...