Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok im doin an rb30det conversion and wondering wether, if i can get my stock rb20det box rebuild and strengthened and would it be able to withstand the torque of the 3ltr engine or use an rb30et gearbox i know alot of people recomend using an rb25 box but there pretty pricey so if i can get ur opinions it will be much appreciated. or if anyone can point me in the direction of a cheap rb25det box or anyone willin to trade a complete rb20det engine for an rb25det box. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/
Share on other sites

prob more depends on how much power and torque your making

just cause its a 3ltr instead of a 2ltr doesnt mean it needs a strong box

200-300kw R33 gtst box would handle it with a decent clutch

300+kw and lifelong reliability youll need either a dog box or straight cut gearset

but out of the standard boxes the R33 GTST RB25 gearbox is the strongest i believe

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2922132
Share on other sites

The R33 box behind a RWD RB30DET has absoltely no issues. 300rwkw is a walk in the park.

-------

I've had an rb20det gearbox much third gear with only ~180rwkw. However, the torque it was making at the wheels was the same as an r33 with 300rwkw (on the same dyno), obviously at a much lower rev.

BUT get a decent non thrashed rb20det box and it will last long enough to save your $$ for an rb25det gearbox. Hunt around they can be picked up for low $1000. Some wreckers charge like a wounded bull. One local wrecker here wants $900 for an rb20det gearbox when there going rate else where is $500!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2932758
Share on other sites

only prob is r33 gtst box's are pricey

then dont do your car up then lol.

yeah there exxy but you dont really have much choice. if your thinking auto for drags its probably the way to go. but a "tricked up" auto (stock jatco) will be more dollars again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2933721
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...