Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Gearbox?

--{TRYDIS}--
 Share

Recommended Posts

--{TRYDIS}-- Community Regular

--{TRYDIS}--

Posted
Posted

ok im doin an rb30det conversion and wondering wether, if i can get my stock rb20det box rebuild and strengthened and would it be able to withstand the torque of the 3ltr engine or use an rb30et gearbox i know alot of people recomend using an rb25 box but there pretty pricey so if i can get ur opinions it will be much appreciated. or if anyone can point me in the direction of a cheap rb25det box or anyone willin to trade a complete rb20det engine for an rb25det box. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/
Share on other sites
RellikZephyr Proficient

RellikZephyr

Posted
Posted

prob more depends on how much power and torque your making

just cause its a 3ltr instead of a 2ltr doesnt mean it needs a strong box

200-300kw R33 gtst box would handle it with a decent clutch

300+kw and lifelong reliability youll need either a dog box or straight cut gearset

but out of the standard boxes the R33 GTST RB25 gearbox is the strongest i believe

RellikZephyr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2922132
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The R33 box behind a RWD RB30DET has absoltely no issues. 300rwkw is a walk in the park.

-------

I've had an rb20det gearbox much third gear with only ~180rwkw. However, the torque it was making at the wheels was the same as an r33 with 300rwkw (on the same dyno), obviously at a much lower rev.

BUT get a decent non thrashed rb20det box and it will last long enough to save your $$ for an rb25det gearbox. Hunt around they can be picked up for low $1000. Some wreckers charge like a wounded bull. One local wrecker here wants $900 for an rb20det gearbox when there going rate else where is $500!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2932758
Share on other sites
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted
only prob is r33 gtst box's are pricey

then dont do your car up then lol.

yeah there exxy but you dont really have much choice. if your thinking auto for drags its probably the way to go. but a "tricked up" auto (stock jatco) will be more dollars again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157349-which-gearbox/#findComment-2933721
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...