Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In association with Initial Drift we will be having a drift day on April 9 at Oran Park North, otherwise known as Driftland.

This event is open only to members of the SAU NSW Club. This is because you need a CAMS licence to play.

L2NS is all you need for this event, that costs $48. I suggest you get a L2S for $85 though so you can come to any of the L2S track days during the year. Each is valid for 12 months.

Cost will be $130 per person. This includes lunch.

Just waiting on confirmation as to whether we need fire extinguishers or not.

Members discussion here.

Non members can discuss those aspects of the event in this thread.

Entered so far:

Abo Bob

Trust33

Evil Weavil

skylinegtts

Apollo S15

Haysey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157562-sau-nsw-official-drift-day/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 171
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow didnt know Oran park was so close to home. If nothing comes up i will definately come as a spectator.

Don't think i am ready to enter these things yet. :laugh:

But will turn up with the camera and take some pics for sure.

Any more details on the day? like what you need..

I have a whole bunch of tyres but i think they are all on the legal limiters.

Any rules about your car like tyres and stuff .. I have never been to one of these yet.

Ill be a late entry if any whats the last date to pay.

You need long sleeves, helmet with Australian Standards 1698 approval, long pants, proper shoes, CAMS licence, blue triangle stuck to the car indicating the battery position (I have about 10 in my toolbox), battery clamp, nothing unsecured in cabin of car (and for some reason the boot too), no rules about tyres. Bring em, fry em.

This will be a first come first served basis and there are two clubs entering so leaving it last minute might not work out for you. They are ALWAYS booked out.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...