Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did mine a few months ago.

I'm pretty sure the centre hole in the factory bush is flared out at the top.

It think the hole in the noltec bush is straight but the same size as the flare in the factory bush.

Have you looked at the studs to see if they are tapered at the base?

Don't worry about the clearance in the bush as it locks up rock solid as Cubes said.

Just an update on my bushes, i got the noltec ones refunded and the new ones arrived today, "nolathane evolution" part#49154 can be found at http://www.redranger.com.au/proc_selection.php

I am only replacing the 2 front bushes (silicon filled) for now, due to guys at work saying u need some play, and due to only the r/f being split which leaked all the silicon out so when i boost it sags down and heads left.

Removal of the bushes was fairly straight forward, support the subframe, found a socket big enough and the all mighty sledge hammer, wack wack, came out.

If using these bushes u need 2 reuse the orignal outer shell, so try not to damage it to much.

Once removed it was of to the gas cutter, just burnt out all the rubber and silicon until all was gone and until the centre feel out, on the outter part there is another 2 sleeves inside the outter one which you need, i simply grinded the end (bottom end of which u smacked out) so its flush then the sleeves simply punched out, leaving u with the outter shell, just grind and file to clean up the edges then i refited this to the subframe, just by applying a flat solid object accross the top and wack, outter shell is now back in subframe, now just simply insert the "nolathane evolution" bushes.

I recomend these bushes if you are replacing them for a gts-t, my opinion, but the crush tube is slightly tighter which fits more solid onto the mount, and the fact u dont have to hack 12mm of the bush and crush tube like the noltec ones.

Am still yet to refit subframe to my car, but will post and update when i have of how it feels etc, I hope this helps

Just an update on my bushes, i got the noltec ones refunded and the new ones arrived today, "nolathane evolution" part#49154 can be found at http://www.redranger.com.au/proc_selection.php

I am only replacing the 2 front bushes (silicon filled) for now, due to guys at work saying u need some play, and due to only the r/f being split which leaked all the silicon out so when i boost it sags down and heads left.

Removal of the bushes was fairly straight forward, support the subframe, found a socket big enough and the all mighty sledge hammer, wack wack, came out.

If using these bushes u need 2 reuse the orignal outer shell, so try not to damage it to much.

Once removed it was of to the gas cutter, just burnt out all the rubber and silicon until all was gone and until the centre feel out, on the outter part there is another 2 sleeves inside the outter one which you need, i simply grinded the end (bottom end of which u smacked out) so its flush then the sleeves simply punched out, leaving u with the outter shell, just grind and file to clean up the edges then i refited this to the subframe, just by applying a flat solid object accross the top and wack, outter shell is now back in subframe, now just simply insert the "nolathane evolution" bushes.

I recomend these bushes if you are replacing them for a gts-t, my opinion, but the crush tube is slightly tighter which fits more solid onto the mount, and the fact u dont have to hack 12mm of the bush and crush tube like the noltec ones.

Am still yet to refit subframe to my car, but will post and update when i have of how it feels etc, I hope this helps

Honestly mate those bushes look like a bad joke compared to the noltec ones but since you have them fit the rear ones while the cradle is out.

It's nonsense to suggest you need movement.

Any increase in NVH is minimal but would be present anyway because you have replaced the front bushes.

Just received a reply from Noltec.

Thanks for your inquiry,

We have been supplying part # N92447 for R32 models fro some time now without any issues.

post-382-1187739483_thumb.jpg

Yes we do offer an almost identical bush but 12mm shorter.

Part # N92446 Price $190

post-382-1187739829_thumb.jpg

Regards,

Andrew Nolan

Marketing Manager

Noltec Suspension

So there we have it.

  • 3 weeks later...

Fixing the rear problem (ie the worn subframe bushes) makes a huge difference to the stability of the rear end.

In addition to that pineapples can help change the angle of the diff and subframe a little for more traction - but most people use them as a dirty fix to cover up rooted bushes

unless you want to change the inclination of the subframe, you don't need the pineapples once the subframe bushes are done.

mine have been done in the GTR and it adds a bit of NVH but much stiffer and controlled :)

do it ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

just a question for the guys who have installed these noltec bushes. i've just installed some in my subframe and was wondering what if any torque settings you guys used to do them up? or did you just do them up as tight as you could?

  • 5 months later...
just a question for the guys who have installed these noltec bushes. i've just installed some in my subframe and was wondering what if any torque settings you guys used to do them up? or did you just do them up as tight as you could?

110nm would be the torqe needed

cheers kyle

  • 1 year later...

I am about to do this job myself.

After doing a bit of research I am going to use the Nolathane bushes. Part # 49154 and if you want to do diff mount #49162.

The good thing about these is that you don't need to remove the outer sleeve from the cradle at all, just cut/burn out the old rubber. grease up the new bush and push in.

No ten bizillion ton press needed. :ermm:

http://nolathane.com.au/install_guides/50-9154.pdf

Fitting guide above.

Will post results after.

Edited by guru_ray
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey nice write up been looking for one like this.

Quick question for the pro's, I wanna use some alloy pineapples does that mean i just slide them over my stock cradle bushes? Or do i have to remove the whole stock bush?

Cheers Davo.

  • 5 months later...

I just got these from Whiteline.

Part Number: #W92446

For R32-Gts-t

Installing tonight or tommorow.

I bought a non hicas rear end, but I was supplied arms, but it seems they are the wrong ones I need traction rods? Can anyone verify the length of the stock traction rods for me?

Cheers,

Michael.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...