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I did mine a few months ago.

I'm pretty sure the centre hole in the factory bush is flared out at the top.

It think the hole in the noltec bush is straight but the same size as the flare in the factory bush.

Have you looked at the studs to see if they are tapered at the base?

Don't worry about the clearance in the bush as it locks up rock solid as Cubes said.

Just an update on my bushes, i got the noltec ones refunded and the new ones arrived today, "nolathane evolution" part#49154 can be found at http://www.redranger.com.au/proc_selection.php

I am only replacing the 2 front bushes (silicon filled) for now, due to guys at work saying u need some play, and due to only the r/f being split which leaked all the silicon out so when i boost it sags down and heads left.

Removal of the bushes was fairly straight forward, support the subframe, found a socket big enough and the all mighty sledge hammer, wack wack, came out.

If using these bushes u need 2 reuse the orignal outer shell, so try not to damage it to much.

Once removed it was of to the gas cutter, just burnt out all the rubber and silicon until all was gone and until the centre feel out, on the outter part there is another 2 sleeves inside the outter one which you need, i simply grinded the end (bottom end of which u smacked out) so its flush then the sleeves simply punched out, leaving u with the outter shell, just grind and file to clean up the edges then i refited this to the subframe, just by applying a flat solid object accross the top and wack, outter shell is now back in subframe, now just simply insert the "nolathane evolution" bushes.

I recomend these bushes if you are replacing them for a gts-t, my opinion, but the crush tube is slightly tighter which fits more solid onto the mount, and the fact u dont have to hack 12mm of the bush and crush tube like the noltec ones.

Am still yet to refit subframe to my car, but will post and update when i have of how it feels etc, I hope this helps

Just an update on my bushes, i got the noltec ones refunded and the new ones arrived today, "nolathane evolution" part#49154 can be found at http://www.redranger.com.au/proc_selection.php

I am only replacing the 2 front bushes (silicon filled) for now, due to guys at work saying u need some play, and due to only the r/f being split which leaked all the silicon out so when i boost it sags down and heads left.

Removal of the bushes was fairly straight forward, support the subframe, found a socket big enough and the all mighty sledge hammer, wack wack, came out.

If using these bushes u need 2 reuse the orignal outer shell, so try not to damage it to much.

Once removed it was of to the gas cutter, just burnt out all the rubber and silicon until all was gone and until the centre feel out, on the outter part there is another 2 sleeves inside the outter one which you need, i simply grinded the end (bottom end of which u smacked out) so its flush then the sleeves simply punched out, leaving u with the outter shell, just grind and file to clean up the edges then i refited this to the subframe, just by applying a flat solid object accross the top and wack, outter shell is now back in subframe, now just simply insert the "nolathane evolution" bushes.

I recomend these bushes if you are replacing them for a gts-t, my opinion, but the crush tube is slightly tighter which fits more solid onto the mount, and the fact u dont have to hack 12mm of the bush and crush tube like the noltec ones.

Am still yet to refit subframe to my car, but will post and update when i have of how it feels etc, I hope this helps

Honestly mate those bushes look like a bad joke compared to the noltec ones but since you have them fit the rear ones while the cradle is out.

It's nonsense to suggest you need movement.

Any increase in NVH is minimal but would be present anyway because you have replaced the front bushes.

Just received a reply from Noltec.

Thanks for your inquiry,

We have been supplying part # N92447 for R32 models fro some time now without any issues.

post-382-1187739483_thumb.jpg

Yes we do offer an almost identical bush but 12mm shorter.

Part # N92446 Price $190

post-382-1187739829_thumb.jpg

Regards,

Andrew Nolan

Marketing Manager

Noltec Suspension

So there we have it.

  • 3 weeks later...

Fixing the rear problem (ie the worn subframe bushes) makes a huge difference to the stability of the rear end.

In addition to that pineapples can help change the angle of the diff and subframe a little for more traction - but most people use them as a dirty fix to cover up rooted bushes

unless you want to change the inclination of the subframe, you don't need the pineapples once the subframe bushes are done.

mine have been done in the GTR and it adds a bit of NVH but much stiffer and controlled :)

do it ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

just a question for the guys who have installed these noltec bushes. i've just installed some in my subframe and was wondering what if any torque settings you guys used to do them up? or did you just do them up as tight as you could?

  • 5 months later...
just a question for the guys who have installed these noltec bushes. i've just installed some in my subframe and was wondering what if any torque settings you guys used to do them up? or did you just do them up as tight as you could?

110nm would be the torqe needed

cheers kyle

  • 1 year later...

I am about to do this job myself.

After doing a bit of research I am going to use the Nolathane bushes. Part # 49154 and if you want to do diff mount #49162.

The good thing about these is that you don't need to remove the outer sleeve from the cradle at all, just cut/burn out the old rubber. grease up the new bush and push in.

No ten bizillion ton press needed. :ermm:

http://nolathane.com.au/install_guides/50-9154.pdf

Fitting guide above.

Will post results after.

Edited by guru_ray
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey nice write up been looking for one like this.

Quick question for the pro's, I wanna use some alloy pineapples does that mean i just slide them over my stock cradle bushes? Or do i have to remove the whole stock bush?

Cheers Davo.

  • 5 months later...

I just got these from Whiteline.

Part Number: #W92446

For R32-Gts-t

Installing tonight or tommorow.

I bought a non hicas rear end, but I was supplied arms, but it seems they are the wrong ones I need traction rods? Can anyone verify the length of the stock traction rods for me?

Cheers,

Michael.

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