Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

last track day i lowered the rev limit to 7400 as i was running 1 bar boost up from .85 on the standard GTR R32 turbos ( being replace now :-) )

But i did notice a jump in the knock count and i was wondering if hitting the rev limiter could also make the ECU consider that misfire as knock.

any theories?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157700-high-knock-count/
Share on other sites

well you increased the boost so maybe the tune wasnt injecting enough fuel for the increased air flow and therefore you got knocking ? took a bit of a gamble running your turbo's @ 1 bar ;o i wouldnt want to risk sending ceramic dust through my engine if i had a godzilla :)

Guys,

last track day i lowered the rev limit to 7400 as i was running 1 bar boost up from .85 on the standard GTR R32 turbos ( being replace now :-) )

But i did notice a jump in the knock count and i was wondering if hitting the rev limiter could also make the ECU consider that misfire as knock.

any theories?

Well given that crunching synchros can sometimes confuse the damn things into thinking it has a knock anything is possible.

Nonetheless don't go looking for excuses. Check your knock values either on a dyno or log them properly. It is not worth an engine...

Guys,

last track day i lowered the rev limit to 7400 as i was running 1 bar boost up from .85 on the standard GTR R32 turbos ( being replace now :-) )

But i did notice a jump in the knock count and i was wondering if hitting the rev limiter could also make the ECU consider that misfire as knock.

any theories?

Lowering timing values even by one degree half the knock count.

Sure also can be the gears sending vibes threw.

What sort of computer do you have?

You can take notes as you drive....if you have a map tracer. :P

Then alter timing lower by a degree...that will solve your problems.

correct i did increase the boost and first few runs were fine less than 20.

Was only when i was late on a gear change during a session and hit the rev limiter ( engine light flashed at that time ) that i had a high knock count.

pleanty of fuel as the wide band never got over 11.5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...