Jump to content
SAU Community

Upgrade, yes or no?  

76 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

And for my next trick. The clutch...

My clutch is slipping a bit now and my recent drag trip wasn't the best. I want to know what you think is the best option for me, not just for the clutch but for the extra parts to make my car good for street, drag and track.

Now, I am expecting everyone to jump in the poll replys with "Jim Berry clutch" over the "Nismo Super Coppermix Twin" or other. I would like to know if other options (such as fork pivot ball, HD clutch pedal, master/slave cylinders) are recommended or even necessary upgrades as well.

I am sort of leaning towards getting the Fork Pivot Ball and HD Clutch Pedal from Kudos Motorsport. Would a new Master and Slave cylinder be a good thing to replace at this stage as well? my GTR is a late '93 model...

I will get the flywheel upgraded as well. If I go with the Nismo single plate clutch the Nismo flywheel can bee added as well, but the twin would support it so a JUN flywheel might be the way to go there and with the Jim Berry single plate clutch as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157719-daily-r32-gtr-clutch-options/
Share on other sites

ive got a os giken twin which i have not yet used? id imagine it will be quiet heavy

but when it dies as its 2nd hand ill prob got the full monty jb as i read alot of good things about the clutches?

i havent been on a nismo coppermix. but i would strongly steer away from any tripple plate.

im running a nismo g-max spec 3. solid centre tripple. 1000ps over..

its an absolute pain in the arse.

i used to run witha os giken twin. it was very nice.

JB makes great gear and like everything you get what you pay for.

He has a really good HD single plate that is designed for road/drag that is pretty soft on the pedal which could be an option for you.

The GIKEN twin are great (previously had on in my GTS-t) although it is a little savage with daily driving through town and can take a little getting used too.

As Dave said the g-max are a pain on the roads but i guess it depends on how much you drive the car on a day to day basis and how many times a year you are going to freaquent the strip!!!

As for changing your Master and slave, if there not leaking and nothing wrong i wouldn't worry about them if you are working on a budget :happy:

If you are thinking of hitting the strip a little more then you will gain some pedal feel with the new upgraded cyclinder but its a little overkill for what you have in mind at the moment...

Do you have a budget you want to stick to or money no object as there are some other great clutches out there that would accomodate what you want and more :(

GMB

I drive the car approx. 40km per day to work and back through peak hour traffic and will be seeing the stripe maybe 2-3 times per year as well as the track 3-4 times a year. So I definately want it to last and not be useful for 1 or 2 runs down the stripe and then start smelling and slipping loads more.

people saying "os twin was ok" etc need to be a little more specific. OS make a few different twins for GTR and the thing I have found make a massive difference is whether or not it has the sprung centre, or a solid centre. I have had in my GTR an OS tripple (solid centre) and an OS twin (solid centre) neither of them I would reccomend for daily use. in fact I wouldn't reccomend a 32 GTR at all for daily use. but if you did want a twin the OS sprung centre twins are not bad to drive with.

one more thing. I find these threads are usually a waste of time. the number of plates doesn't have all that much impact on how the car drives. the main factors are:

pressure plate clamping load

sprung or solid centre

type of plates (full face, puck style, buttons of friction material?)

type of friction material used (carbon, ceramic, high metal content, composite...)

the numer of plates is the last thing to influence the clutch behaviour.

  • 2 weeks later...

What flywheel would be recommended for use with a Twin Plate clutch?

I notice that NISMO make a flywheel that is specific for Single Plate clutches. Do any other flywheel makers make different ones for the amount of plates in the clutch?

I know Perfect Run sell a JUN flywheel, any good?

every twin plate clutch kit i've seen comes with the flywheel. reason being the cage needs to be affixed to the flywheel, so it comes as a kit: flywheel (with cage), plates, intermediate plate, pressure plate + cover, and sometimes bearing too.

If you want a tough clutch thats perfect for street driving, I would suggest the Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate

I have had one in my R33 GTR for a couple of years now and its been nothing short of fastastic.

Excellent and not overly heavy pedal feel, heaps of bite.

every twin plate clutch kit i've seen comes with the flywheel. reason being the cage needs to be affixed to the flywheel, so it comes as a kit: flywheel (with cage), plates, intermediate plate, pressure plate + cover, and sometimes bearing too.

Oh, come to think of it I never even noticed the flywheel in this picture (click the clutch first)

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...ppermixTwin.htm

Thanks BB and B, I have always swayed towards this over the JB. The Nismo HD clutch pedal will help with that heavy feeling a bit as well.

No offence intended here but if you can't drive or don't like the feel of race clutch get Jim Berry!

I have driven a number of cars with after market clutches from single to quad plates. I have an OS triple and I thought it was easy to drive on the street until it was worn and JB rebuilt the clutch. It just feel like a standard clutch. It's so easy and boring to drive WITHOUT any slip. JB is good :laugh:

I have not driven any of the nismo clutches so I can't vote lol

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...