Jump to content
SAU Community

Annual Sau Dyno Day Pictures/video And Discussion


Recommended Posts

You'll be there in no time Jarrad...

Yeah at half a bar with a slipping clutch i reckon you did well to get 230rwkw...

Cant wait to see her with a new clutch and some more boost...

You should catch up and ill have to put some cams in to reclaim bragging rights... :wave:

Yeah she'll be right

Ill get everything fixed one day

Heres a video I made on my digital camera(the sound is a bit dodgy for some reason) its only new and I have to work out how to use it and its only got a small card it so this is the only video I got of the day.

http://www.sirskyline.com/Files/IMGP1933.avi

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sigh..

Theres a picture of a FOOT! but not even a rim picture of my car

I mean i know its stock and all but hey even a blurry one would of been nice...

*sniff sniff*

123 aint too bad though for stock i was just glad it didnt blow up :wave:

Putting the FMIC and pod on is this week so my empty pockets begins :wave:

great day though.. thanks to all for setting it up...

kudos : Chef - your sausages rocked..

the exec crew of SAU Qld.. thanks for my first dyno day :laugh:

/popped cherry

Hey chris, im in the same boat. stock as a rock r33 126rwkw (no.13), at lot of ppl are saying the power readings are a little low, but from what i can see it looks like they were pretty consistant.......... :D

Hey chris, im in the same boat. stock as a rock r33 126rwkw (no.13), at lot of ppl are saying the power readings are a little low, but from what i can see it looks like they were pretty consistant.......... :)

Yeah your always going to get people saying it reads low or it reads high... You never get everyone saying it reads right...

Thats dyno days for ya... It will happen again after May dyno night, you will see... :laugh:

But yeah here is a guide i cut and paste from a thread of mine from years ago;

Stock standard figures (approx)

As you loose approx 25% theough the drivetrain

R33 GTS = 85-95rwkw

R33 GTS-T = 132-140rwkw

R33 GTR = 155-165rwkw (in 2wd mode)

Hey guys,

this was my first SAU event ever, I had my car up at Allstar during the week and Richard

told me I should come up on Saturday and watch all the other skylines. Glad I did, I have

just purchased a Power FC and hand controller for my S2 R33 so should get some decent

power figures and be keen to chuck it up on the dyno in May.

From just a spectators point of view, I think the event was extremely well planned, looked

like everyone had a lot of fun (I know I did :laugh: )

I'd like to thank the people from SAU and Allstar for putting together such a well organised

day and the people who helped behind the scenes.

See you all again soon no-doubt!!!

Jared

From just a spectators point of view, I think the event was extremely well planned, looked

like everyone had a lot of fun (I know I did :laugh: )

Thats awsome Jared...

First impressions last for ever...

Thanks for your comments, I and all involved will also love to hear that... :)

Great to hear you got a pfc before they become fossils... They are hard to come by these days...

Cheers Col

kudos : Chef - your sausages rocked..

the exec crew of SAU Qld.. thanks for my first dyno day :)

You're most welcome Chris, we look forward to seeing you at future events :) And thanks heaps for you help on the bbq too, what a champion
he's not the president of the club for no reason yaknow :)
:laugh:

lol

ITS UP -------->
Nasal delivery technology?

ENJOY!!!

w00teh, nice vid :)
Nasal delivery technology?

Yes :laugh:

Thanks Marc, it would have been tops to see the Cresy up on the rollers...

Maby we can get the members & users to vote your car onto the rollers without your consent... :)

col, 155 - 165 rwkw doesnt sound right for a GTR... My stock one dyno'd 203 rwkw before richo tuned it on thursday on the same dyno on a slightly cooler (not a whole lot, certainly not 40 kw worth) day.

//edit

Just reviewed all the photos, man im a superstar! Im in like 6 - 7 of cols photos, and even my car appeared in one of adams shots despite not even running on the day :laugh:

Hey chris, im in the same boat. stock as a rock r33 126rwkw (no.13), at lot of ppl are saying the power readings are a little low, but from what i can see it looks like they were pretty consistant.......... :laugh:

Yah,

i took a look at my readings and showed a few of the peeps.. I was using a tonnne of unused fuel and they believed that the spark plugs needed replacing.

I went out and bought some <insert werid long number> NGK Irredium core ones and put them in. I already have less fuel consumption. (which is always a good thing)

Im not upset at the readout.. from what my understanding is... is with enough engine replacement parts.. its basicly a new engine anyhoo.

and 3 kwz difference between mine and yours basicly states that both of our engines are around the same figures which means they are pretty decent for upgrading.

I would be a little more shocked if you got 136 and i got 123.. but 3kwz is nothing but a good service and clean.. i would possibly say with the change of plugs i MIGHT have that difference now already.

Keep me posted in which way you got for upgrades bud will be good to see the differences between what you and i do :D

col, 155 - 165 rwkw doesnt sound right for a GTR...

Factory 208kw at the fly Ian... Do the math...

Im talking bog stock, off the show room floor, Nissans specs...

Althought in saying that there are about a million variables, hence i used Nissans factory specs...

So its only a guide, not gospel....

Even topgear said, that Nissans 208rwkw is more like 240rwkw, they just say 208 for registration reasons in Japan, so go figure...

col, 155 - 165 rwkw doesnt sound right for a GTR...

My stocko 32 GTR ran 185kw at the wheels on saturday. I was content with this reading. Was hoping for a little more but wasnt too shore what it would put out so all in all not too bad. It is always good to get a reading to compare as modifications happen.

Factory 208kw at the fly Ian... Do the math...

Im talking bog stock, off the show room floor, Nissans specs...

Althought in saying that there are about a million variables, hence i used Nissans factory specs...

So its only a guide, not gospel....

Even topgear said, that Nissans 208rwkw is more like 240rwkw, they just say 208 for registration reasons in Japan, so go figure...

And your figures were were probably 4wd figures too not RWD

Als Ian doesnt your car have exhaust, more boost and R34 turbos?

Good to meet you finally Step...

Sorry Ian had to sit on your head for a photo...

But im a childish as him most of the time...

Acually it was a little comfortable down there :)

then i told him that my neck started hurting and then someone asked for the photo op ;)

haha.....i look pretty sad there.

On another note, in one of the pictures i "accidentally" did a Subliminal Advertising of Coca Cola :wave: hehehehehehehehe!

And your figures were were probably 4wd figures too not RWD

Als Ian doesnt your car have exhaust, more boost and R34 turbos?

Nope!

Awwww an exhaust yeah, but it still holds him back a little. Boost was stock, after the dyno the tune said it should go down....so i belive the boost is about 0.9/ 0.7 bar now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...