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UPDATE: Read last post by me plase. I really would appriciate some input on this. Driving me nuts.

It has got to the stage where the car, just coughs it's guts up in the morning and then coughs some more, untill bang 1200 rpm.

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This is exactly what is happening to my car

"Hey just a small annoyance with my cold start. When starting the car up for the first time on the day the idle goes to like 600,700rpm kinda stumbles then just revs out kind of wakes up and then just warms up normally and yeah everything else is fine i know kind of picky but yeah just abit annoying. For the rest of the day turn the car on when cold warms up normal but if its not driven for more than a day or two then yeah does it again could be the cold but also wondering if it may be related to the tps??"

My car also seams like it only fires up 3-4 cylinders, then clears its throuat and fires up all 6.

The compresion test is ok 150 across all cylinders.

Does anyone know the anwser to this.

Post taken from

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=124145&hl=

Edited by WogsRus

I used to have issues with idling even when warm.

Commuting after an hour and at the lights and it would just drop and stall...or go up to 1200.

Now have Power FC and hasn't happenned since. Dunno why.

Also, there is an ACC (or AAC) valve cleaning thread in the DIY section. That controls your idle. Doesn't look like too much work so maybe give that a go

nope car uses no Water ot oil, has no blow by or anythign of that nature. Itseams to have started to happen after I started to modify the car. I am running a Centra 20 ECU, which does not have the little idle adjustment screw on it, so i am not sure at all.

There is no wate rin the oil or vice versa. Engine compression is 150psi across teh board, and all seams ok. I wander if it sould be a leakying injector or something?

What's a: Centra 20 ECU?

Is it compatible with the s2 engine?

Has the cold start been tuned properly?

Have you tried refitting you std ecu in?

This sentance makes no sense, please clarify: "There is no wate rin the oil or vice versa"

Could also be a leaky injector, but i'll check my mods first, as it only started once you started to mod it.

Central 20 is a tuning house in Japan. Its a remaped Ecu from them

The cold start is preset. It is not tunable in Australia, as Dr DRift has not got the hardware to do so yet.

There is no water in the engine oil or vice versa. So radiator and sump are both clean, no problems there.

It did the same with a standard ecu. The ecu does not have an autolearn function, like a PFC, it's preset to a set map and that's it.

Reseting has not done anythign at all.

I have replaced the watter coolant temperature sensor already, as the old one was bugared, this one has done abut 6 months work.

The thing is, it only does it first start in the morning. If i start the car any time after that, it is ok, no probs there.

When stock, the car had no issues, it's only after i started to mod the car, that this has begun to occur.

It did the same this morning, it kicked over on 4 cylinders or so, then coughed and fired up into life

OK GUYS SO HERE IT IS AND STILL NO GOOD.

I maybe thorght a head gasket, but ie:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...id=2943614&

But nope all fine.

SO what i did is this.

OK well so this morning, after running the car empty of fuel last night in the fuel rail (pump off car cranking and fired up) and the cap of the radiator to stop any pressure into the block.

THE Car still started like crap. DAM IT. i dind't get a chance to clean the AAC, but that seams to work ok, once the stumble has disapeared.

I primed the lines, waited for the pump to go off, and blupp, blup blup, cough, cough, vroom 1200rpm. ONLY WHEN COLD IN THE MORNING DAM IT.

I have almost rulled out the head gasket, as it never uses water, not a drop, no bubbles ect.

So i checked the plugs and this is what they looked like, ALL THE SAME, i also put some REDLINE FUEL CLEANER SI-1 as i have had so many good reviews about it, but have only done 50km sinse that was done, so see how it goes.

SO WHAT THE HELL IS IT.

What is the best test for vacume leaks, i have sprayed arround with carb cleaner, nothing.

What i was thinking, is getting my smoke machine, yess i have one, putting the smoke in the cooler piping, through the turbo, basicaly where the AFM is, and pressurising teh system to 15 psi with an air comressor, that way the smoke will give me an indication of any leaks.

I am loosing so much fcucking sleap over this car, i just want it to run right. COME ON.

HELP ME before i sell it.

PS. For images of sparks please read above thread.

Mate living in Tas means anything to do with an import, will cost 10 times more then a Falcodore.

It sux, hence why i do it all myself.

Also being a mech engineer (who can't spell), i figure i can do it

I don't trust any mechanics with any of my cars. Esspecially here in tas.

Nissan here are usless, stuffed up so many cars, no one goes there for servicing. Consult comes back with nothing.

Oh well any more ideas????

outside of rail, you mean remove them and get sonic cleaning?

If so, then nope, not yet, but about 15k ago they were pulled out and found to be fine. But like i said, i drained the whole system of fuel, and then let sit over night. So there was no fuel in the injectors. Then after repriming the lines, it still did it.

Stock ECU no differance, did the same.

No i have not tried and AFM as yet, it has been cleaned, but still teh original item. How does the AFM contribute to this issue only when cold, and fine all the other times?

Thanks guys keep them comming.

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