Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Probably a little bit off topic, but it reminded me of the time i had to remove the harmonic balancer on my old Commodore V8, and no matter what i tried (Body weight leaning on the breaker bar, hitting it with a hammer, borrowing a compressor and rattle gun) the damned bolt wouldn't come off!!!

Even after many of my friends having countless frustrating hours trying to get this crank bolt off, one of my friends after staring at the car for quite some time, came up with the idea of getting the breaker bar, putting a piece of pipe onto it's handle to make it longer and give it more leverage and placing it underneath the chassis rail, whilst i turned the key on the starter motor, and voila!!! one crank bolt loosened by the torque of the engine's own starter motor!

keep this nifty trick in mind kids, it could have saved me many hours of grief!

  • 2 years later...
belt 1302820P25 - $82.25

water pump 2101070T25 - $97.06

Can anyone confirm these are the right parts for the RB20?

When I called the Nissan dealer, they said that is the right parts, but when 2 workshops (not just one) called them, they were both told they needed a different water pump, which is worth $386?! HUGE difference. Mechanic said that he knows the RB30 and RB25 are different (the bolt hole issue others have mentioned) but he isn't sure about RB20.

Thanks

Chris

the belt part number is the right one although mine had a diff part number on it for the one i got but it only cost $88

water pump i was also quoted $383 through nissan which i thought was crazy they must have quoted an rb26 pump or something

i done this change over last friday/sat aswell as turbo change all was reletivaly easy if you have the tools to do it

we used a steering wheel, pulley puller to get the harmonic balancer off

to undo the crank bolt put it in 5th gear and have someone stand on the brakes so the car wont move and have someone use a tention wrench to breaker bar to undo it mine came off fairly easy

total cost was $88 + carton of beer :P

Searched, and not found any concrete answers......

Can some one please tell me a definate part number (genuine, and/or non- genuine) for the R32 gts-t's RB20DET timing belt, and the water pump.

I want to be sure, so I dont have to pull it apart before I buy parts..

I have heard that the water pump is the same as the RB30 locally offered motor, but then I have heard that a bolt hole doesnt line up properly..

Where can I get a timing belt from, if not only the nissan dealer.. (I'm in Adelaide, southern suburbs) Tried motortraders, repco, sprint auto..no such luck..

Surely some of you R32 gtst owners have done the belt change yourselves? Or does everyone pay someone else to do it?

Any help is appreciated!

Steve

You don't need part numbers. Just write down your VIN number and walk into your local nissan dealer. They will give you the correct part for your vehicle. The RB25 belt should be the same as the RB20 belt but genuine is the best way to go for quality on this item. The VL water pump WILL fit your vehicle.

You don't need part numbers. Just write down your VIN number and walk into your local nissan dealer. They will give you the correct part for your vehicle. The RB25 belt should be the same as the RB20 belt but genuine is the best way to go for quality on this item. The VL water pump WILL fit your vehicle.

This is the reason I have brought this topic back. The problem is the Nissan dealer told me a $120 pump is the go, but told the 2 shops I rang that $380ish pump is the go. They are obviously different pumps. Seems the Nissan dealer isn't too sure.

I will try the Rb30 pump and see what happens

Go either the cheaper RB30 pump or the GTR N1 pump that has the anti-cavitation plate that increases flow and prevents cavitation at high rpm.

Thats the only difference between the pumps. From memory the R33 series 2 pumps are slightly different being one bolt hole is slightly aligned different. If thats the case then grab a repco Rb30e pump as they have provision for this.

  • 3 weeks later...

reason i asked coz i was hoping to buy all the parts need to do a timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner and timing case seals in one visit to the garage.

no idea what numbers they are?

I can tell you that when I got mine done, mechanic used

- RB30 water pump

- Cam Belt - Whatever Nissan reccomended (it was genuine)

The seals I left up to the mechanic to chase...same with bearings. The bearings were not in stock at CBC, he ended up having to get to sydney (live in newcastle) to find someone that stocked them.

I plan to post up the part numbers, just I am never on the net at home...which is where the receipt is.

The RB30 water pump has the same bolt pattern and will bolt up. (Its the RB25 that has a different bolt and won't bolt up)

But does it have the same impeller?

If its different you may get cavatation at high rpm on RB20.

The RB30 revs to 6400rpm where as the RB20 revs to 8000rpm.

Just a thought, that the impeller may be different, haven't actually inspected a 20DET pump alongside the RB30 so i can't say.

The Repco RB30 pump has provision for the RB25 S2 boltup.

With regards to cavitation.. I wouldn't worry. If you are reving to 8000rpm or anywhere over 6000-6500rpm you will be getting caviation with the stock pump anyway.

For track work where high rpm 6000-6500rpm+ is used definitely look at the rb26 N1 water pump.

A prime example is Roy's engine temp differences with those few more rev's.

I've seen my RB20 pump next to the rb30 pump. No differences, same design, same fin angle etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...