Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok..

couple of months back i started a topic which was about a similar issue, where under 50%+ acceleration i'd be getting popping outta the exhaust and felt like someone was pulling on the handbreak.

But this time, no popping noise.. its just accelerates, and around 4krpm it just dies in the ass till it gets past then continues to accelerate.

last time a ECU reset solved the issue, I've recently installed a SAFC (after this issue started) its untuned, but no fuel adjustments have been made, would this be doing it?

anyway im going to try and get a quick dynognosis tomorrow when i pick the car back up =)

just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to save $$$ on dyno time.

any way to turn R&R off completely

thanks.

Edited by illusiVe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158382-r34-gtt-think-its-rnr-now-dammit/
Share on other sites

safc willl help as you will be able to alter the fueling around those cells that are going into rnr

but it will not eliminate it entirely , like all safc operations it will be a bit of a juggling match

remap/full ecu is your only true solution

My R34 gtt did the exactly the same thing even on the dyno it would drop out mid range and then pick back up.

Firstly do ou still have the factory turbo??? If you do then that is your problem (it has nouthing to do with the computer) The nylon inpellar probally has cracks in it or even chips off it.

fixed it..

stupid guys who worked on my car needed to get to the suspension and for some reason ripped my boost controller.. so it wasnt plugged in, and when the 12v came in it grounded the engine, causing loss of power.

rewired and problem gone... for now :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...