Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just went in to get my car tuned up. had a bit of a fault with the power fc so i had to send it back to the factory to get it checked out, but still had the boost controller put in using .7 bar boost and achieved a crappy 170rwkw.

the car currently has a FMIC, full 3" turbo back exhaust, Pod and is boosted to .7 bar which gave me 170rwkw, compared to HPIs Project R34 Car which made 180rwkw with just .7 bar boost and catback + front pipe.

i have all the advantages here (FMIC, POD, Dump pipe, High FLow Cat) and still came sort 10rwkws.

is that possible?

what are all u guys getting?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158477-how-much-power-you-getting/
Share on other sites

I will be getting mine tuned in a couple of weeks. Has a Power FC, split dump / front pipe, metal high flow cat, 3" cat back, pod filter and CAI, and is running about 11psi. I am hoping for around 200rwkw but it is largly up to the dyno it is on too.

just went in to get my car tuned up. had a bit of a fault with the power fc so i had to send it back to the factory to get it checked out, but still had the boost controller put in using .7 bar boost and achieved a crappy 170rwkw.

the car currently has a FMIC, full 3" turbo back exhaust, Pod and is boosted to .7 bar which gave me 170rwkw, compared to HPIs Project R34 Car which made 180rwkw with just .7 bar boost and catback + front pipe.

i have all the advantages here (FMIC, POD, Dump pipe, High FLow Cat) and still came sort 10rwkws.

is that possible?

what are all u guys getting?

Your complaining over a 10kw difference? Nevermind the fact you didnt have it run up on the same dyno!

Your complaining over a 10kw difference? Nevermind the fact you didnt have it run up on the same dyno!

agreed

each dyno is different.

Simple as that.

If you made more power on the same dyno than you did before the mods... & car feels better.

Then thats all there is too it

Double the mods? What, an FMIC and pod filter? Neither of which are going to give you any more power....

are u on drugs mate?

a car that didnt have a FMIC, no pod, no dump pipe, no cat, got an extra 10rwkws.

if i had the same mods and i was short 10kws fair enough but just the amount of things i had over the other car should of at least put me ahead of him by 10 not behind.

just think about it for a second, no FMIC which means temps would be pretty high on a boosted up car, no pod(fair enough maybe not a big gain here but still adds!!), no cat or dump pump...which is wdh in my opionion...u got 3" of air slammin down the front then all of a sudden into a shiet box of a cat.......

all im saying is how da hell did i come up short...and was wondering what other r34 owners came up with.

I hear HKS stickers give you 10kw extra.........EACH!! ......

hey ur pretty funny man, has anyone told u about being a comedian.....extra thumbs up for the joke u thought up urself aswell....lol....loser........

agreed

each dyno is different.

Simple as that.

If you made more power on the same dyno than you did before the mods... & car feels better.

Then thats all there is too it

fair enough i guess....but just mind boogled me seriously......honestly was expecting ALOT more

Edited by anDru

Missing some stickers?

As everyone else said different dynos would give different values.

Take it down a 1/4 mile see what you get.

Power is all relative..

Check out here -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845

For what other people get. Yea it's a long thread.. :)

are u on drugs mate?

a car that didnt have a FMIC, no pod, no dump pipe, no cat, got an extra 10rwkws.

if i had the same mods and i was short 10kws fair enough but just the amount of things i had over the other car should of at least put me ahead of him by 10 not behind.

just think about it for a second, no FMIC which means temps would be pretty high on a boosted up car, no pod(fair enough maybe not a big gain here but still adds!!), no cat or dump pump...which is wdh in my opionion...u got 3" of air slammin down the front then all of a sudden into a shiet box of a cat.......

all im saying is how da hell did i come up short...and was wondering what other r34 owners came up with.

hey ur pretty funny man, has anyone told u about being a comedian.....extra thumbs up for the joke u thought up urself aswell....lol....loser........

fair enough i guess....but just mind boogled me seriously......honestly was expecting ALOT more

The FMIC is not really going to make much difference at that boost / power level, the factory R34 SMIC's are pretty good. And the pod filter will bugger all to over a decent panel filter in the factory air box.

i agree dynos are all diffrent we had a vy ss ute running big mods fmic,supercharged,cams tune bla bla blaa it got 389rwkw on shoot out mode on a dyno dynamics (the same dyno that capa have used with nearly all of there devolpment cars ),the next day took it down to a motor show rolled it on a unknown brand dyno look pretty god dam old pulled 314rwkw pretty upsetting

there is always a diffrence in dyno readout there a tuning tool

did you have the same tourque as that other r34 or less or more

how many klms does it have compaired to this other r34

remember they are a tunning tool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...