Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bring it to the workshop near ur place. if u in mt gravatt i knw a good mechanic around there which is near the JB HIFI. i used to work there. is locate in front of the pool n snooker shop. if u knw where.

Did u check the coil packs see is it burn ? i think i had tis kind of problem before in my work place's customer's car. but is R33. yea i just hate the hicas light alway on and off.

but , if is about the idle. pull the coil packs n check whether is burn or not. if im not wrong one of my customer's car had tis problem. we check all the sensors n nothing wrong with it and end up is the intake pipe which is from air filter to the turbo pipe. The reason of the pipe is because of the heat make the pipe get softer n when u the pipe will b squire. Im not sure if is the same problem i had in customer's car.

Just bring it to the mechanic near the JB HIFI area. i already lost his phone number and forget what's the workshop call.

Good luck

Mick

Thanks halo,

Yeah thanks to alot of people who have given me some great opinions guys..... thankyou alot.

I think im gonna start by tracing these wires in the steering column and make sure there all connected up and not cut / faulty. I have no resivor in my 32 at the back so im guessing my hicas fluid is from the PS resivor which is full.

As for the idle im going to first clean the AAC valve and reset the base idle etc, change fuel filter and then if its still the same, take the coils out and check them thoroughly and maybe also cover them in industrial grade silicon just incase there starting to arc out.

I think the connectors for the plugs that connect to the coil packs are rooted as the little plastic insides have crumbled up? has that happened to anyone else yet?

Do i just hunt for a 2nd hand set of leads/wires with the connectors on? or can u buy those plastic bits new from nissan?

Also picking up a 2nd hand speedo as mine has split the plastic housing at the back and causes the speedometer to jerk about sometimes and plus the odometer has stopped working :S

Thanks guys for all the advice and help.....

Its great to know i can always ask the SAU family for some help

Cheers BOOSTA (pete)

for the spedo cable u cant get the plastic bit. u have to change whole spedo cable which u can get 2nd hand or from nissan dealer which will cost u too much so juz go to wreckers and get them. because of the speedo cable cause u the add metre stop working.

try getting your injectors cleaned and see if it makes any difference, my r32 was doing the same thing - drives fine idles shit, when i got the injectors cleaned it fixed it. could also be the coolant temp sensor, the car thinks its cold all the time so its always running rich, might be worth changing, theyre pretty cheap.

Hey Guys,

Thanks so much to all who have replied, i have quite a good list of things to start checking over and one by one will knock them off the list.

I dont know what i'd of done if it wasnt for the help from SAU, Does anyone know a good way to check out cooler piping to see if its leaking air anywhere? Because my standard bov is bloody loud, sounds like a turbosmart atmo vent one even tho its plumbed back ?....

THANKYOU !!!

My List to check......

1. AAC valve and assembly (including clean out and idle reset)

2. Connect Wires in steering column and check over. (hicas checkover)

3. Replace Fuel Filter and check out old one.

4. Check over Coil Packs and also cover in industrial silicone

5. Check and possibly replace coolant temp sensor.

6. Check AFM and Oxy Sensor for correct readings.

7. Check Injectors and clean if needed.

8. Check all intercooler piping for possible air leak... as i think thats where the backfire problem is occuring !!!!

#My car specs#

1989 R32 GTST

Rb20det

Standard Turbo

Standard boost (spikes to 11psi)

Standard plumb back bov (bloody noisy? possibly leaking somewhere?)

Standard Dump and Front pipes

3" Hi flow cat

3" Bee R cat back exhaust

New NGK Iridiums (standard gap)

CHEERS BOOSTA (Pete)

I put money on it that it is your ECU.

There is a series of actions you can perform to reset your ECU to factory settings. Do a search you should be able to find it.

If not let me know as I can find out.

Grippy.

if u wanna reset it, just unhook your battery and pump the brake pedal a few times.

i suggest taking the car to a workshop, they will find the problem alot quicker and easier than you will. charlies at wooloongabba know skylines very well, they deal with alot of them. im sure they will sort your problem out very quickly.

on the bov issue, u might find its stuck shut (if they can do that) the noise you are probably hearing is the flutter noise the air makes as it comes back out the compressor wheel of the turbo. try sourcing a new stock bov, it will most probably fix that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...