Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I know I have been posting a lot lately but this is a different topic.

I am considering swapping in a RB26 from a R33 and then selling off my semi-stuffed (low comp in one cylinder) engine to make the whole thing easier and cheaper. Is it worth it though?

I know they both have ceramic turbos, and are close to the same power output, but obviously the R33 is newer than my old engine anyway. What other advantages do R33 Rb26s have over, say rebuilding the R32 engine I have?

I am not after a hardcore car, just about 220kw at the wheels.

Bryce

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158629-r33-vs-r32-rb26-engines/
Share on other sites

the rb26 will shit all over the stock rb20 stronger etc.

but if you have already got a 26 in your 32 then i still would probably swap considering if engine is in good nick etc.

is alround a better engine built for racing.

not a mechanic but from what i have seen and also i have a 32 gtr and nothing will touch you on street with correct upgrades and correct engine tuning

hope this is help

test the 26 you will have some fun.

laters and 220k at wheels you would probably have to detune the engine and turbos lol.

the rb26 will shit all over the stock rb20 stronger etc.
I think he is asking about R32 RB26 vs R33 RB26

I've done the conversion, R33 RB26 into R32 GTR, its rather straight foward.

only differences I found when installing was

-the knock sensor loom has a different plug. (just pull the one off the 32 motor and bolt it on the 33 donk)

-the heater hoses at the rear are larger on the 33 than the 32 (I just made a step down inline brass reducer)

-Also Use your R32 GTR dash water temp sensor in the 33 motor. ( the 33 sensor didnt register anything on the dash)

You will get the stronger oil pump drive coller at least, I think the 33 motor has a little bit more tourqe and hp, thought I'm not sure if its a slighly different cam grind or port desgin? somebody will know...

Ecu will work fine on either 33 ecu on 32 motor or 32 ecu on 33 motor too.

Hope this helps :ninja:

Cameron

Thanks for the advice guys. Now I have to find a quality R33 engine I guess. What about the turbos? Are they the same on the R32 and R33 (oh and yes I have a GTR already with a RB26 just to confirm)

Spend the money it would take to buy an R33 RB26 on rebuilding your R32 RB26 and it will be better than the R33 RB26 (did that make sense?)

for sure!

If you are talking second hand engines the real difference is a 33 motor is probably younger, but by now I guess you would count both of them as old. The oil drive difference isn't worth paying an extra $2k for :no:

BUT my argument is that for $3000 "change over" I will have a newer-ish engine without the blown ring. The cost of rebuilding could be as much as $10000 at the end of the day. While the engine is out I would spend a bit more and put on an N1 oil pump and new turbos. Then sell off the old R33 turbos and the old R32 engine and turbos (possibly in pieces). This could mean I could have a R33 engine with N1 turbos and N1 oil pump for less than $5000 total price (drive in drive out). To me that sounds better than $10000 block and head setup. Any other comments?

Ecu will work fine on either 33 ecu on 32 motor or 32 ecu on 33 motor too.

One thing I noticed and I'm fairly sure about is the AFM's are different between the R32 and R33. When my R33 ECU died, I bought an R32 ECU because it was all I could find. It worked, but the car chewed through a lot more petrol. Like 22-25L/100km around town, and around 18-19L/100km on the highway. It was running so rich that the whole back and some of the top of my boot lid started accumulating exhaust crap, as opposed to just the rear bumper and some of the back of the boot lid.

A few weeks later I got a PowerFC and noticed that in the AFM menu it has different entries for the R32 and R33 AFM's and I don't see why they would bother unless they're different. Since my car was running way too rich with R33 AFM's and an R32 ECU, I would imagine that going the other way (R32 AFM's and R33 ECU) would be make it too lean. But the knock sensor would probably take care of that so you might not notice any problems other than having less power.

It won't matter if you are just swapping the engines but keeping the rest the same, but thought I would point it out in case other bits are being swapped.

i didn't think there were any major mechanical changes to the rb26 between all three models? am i wrong?

The early RB26 needs a crank collar. It was corrected around '92 or so from what I've read.

R34 cams won't fit in an earlier model.

Can anyone tell me if R34 turbos will bolt straight onto the R32 manifold and exhaust?

Basically I am thinking to get a "tested" R33 engine (complete) then sell off the turbos and my old engine and turbos (maybe get $3500 back in total) then bolt up a set of R34 turbos (yes I know they are still ceramic but they are ballbearing and a lot newer + I dont need more than 12psi boost really anyway). Can anyone see there being any pain involved in this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy. I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to
    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
×
×
  • Create New...